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Beneteau 40 & 43

A place to exchange thoughts, ideas and discussions about the Beneteau/Oceanis 40 and 43 models.

Members: 115
Latest Activity: Feb 28

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eyebrow salon window re-bed

Started by sam. Last reply by Robert & Sandy Mar 12, 2024. 2 Replies

110 volt systems fuse

Started by Chris. Last reply by Chris Oct 12, 2023. 4 Replies

B43 Traveller

Started by Dave Shore. Last reply by Larry Witty May 17, 2023. 1 Reply

Keel offset for depth transducer

Started by Pat Keegan. Last reply by Pat Keegan Apr 23, 2023. 1 Reply

HOW IS SEAKNOTS GOING IN THE NEW YEAR?

Started by Robert & Sandy. Last reply by Rafa Jan 2, 2023. 1 Reply

Farewell all

Started by Wayne. Last reply by Mike Brown May 17, 2022. 11 Replies

Beneteau 40 Black Mesh Window Covers

Started by Randy Brown. Last reply by Kerim N Jan 6, 2022. 2 Replies

B43 Windlass Drainage

Started by Larry Witty. Last reply by Mike Brown Dec 23, 2021. 3 Replies

DOLPHN 40 AMP BATTERY CHARGER

Started by Robert & Sandy. Last reply by James Taylor Dec 17, 2021. 3 Replies

O43: Good tracking on starboard side - poor on port side

Started by Jochen Vetterlein. Last reply by Mike Brown Oct 9, 2021. 8 Replies

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Comment by Mike Brown on April 7, 2009 at 12:06pm

For any 43 owners contemplating installing a flat screen in the salon. This should work for a 40 as well, other than the point at the iquer cabinet.
Here's how I did it. I installed a cable TV outlet in the hull just below the shore power outlets. Then ran the cable along the Stbd side next to the exisiting cables and hoses. Access was easy once I removed the aft cabin mattress and access covers. It's easy to fish the wire through the cabinet in the head. I finished it off by installing a cable outlet box in the air conditioner compartment.

For the 110AC I ran the wiring from the back of the Air Conditioner breaker panel. I tied the Hot and Neutral wires in on the switched side of the main AC breaker. The Gnd wire was tied into the GNd buss. I then ran the wire along the port hull behind the seat backs, down thru the storage area, into the bilge and into the air conditioner compartment. I used plastic cable clamps in the bilge to hold the wire just below the floor boards. I finished it off with a Ground Fault receptacle and box in the air conditioner compartment.

Next came mounting the TV to the bulkhead. I measured from the base of the cabinet to the height I chose for the TV. Marked where the center was and drilled the first hole for the mounting bracket. Ensured the bracket was level and then inserted the remaining 3/4" hex head stainless steel lag bolts. Next I drilled a 1 1/2" hole for the power cord and cable wire. I located this so the cord would run smoothly from the back of the TV into the hole. I then drilled a hole inside the liquer cabinet as low as I possibly could. Then drilled another hole that leads from the liquer cabinet into the air conditioner compartment. Note that the bulkhead is apx 3/4" thick as is the wall of the liquer cabinet. With no room to work in the liquer cabinet I used a Dremel Tool with a right angle adapter and drilled a series of small holes in a circle large enough to accomodate the power cord. I then used a Dremel bit to cut between the holes making a rough opening. I used a Dremel sanding disc to round and smooth out the edges. Note that this hole should be directly below the hole in the bulkhead. This will make fishing the wires much easier. Fishing the cable wiring proved to be the most time consuming as it wouldn't drop straight down. There's very little room for you to grab the wires or insert a wire fish. Even cursing didn't persuade it :) Once all the cables were run I connected them to the back of the TV and hung the unit on the rack. Then I inserted the plate/rod that locks it into place so it can't bounce off in heavy seas. Note that the mount I used is for household use and therefore has some minor play to it. Beacause of that I'm also going to insert a squishy type sponge out of sight, behind the TV to take up any slack to keep it from bouncing in the mount as we're under way. I tried to take as many pictures as I could but realize I have none of the holes in the liquer cabinet. If anyone is interested I can take and post some this weekend when I return to the boat.
Comment by Mike Brown on March 28, 2009 at 12:10am

Franc, we were at the boat tonight as they just launched her this afternoon. We couldn't wait to see her in the water again. I took s couple of pictures of our boom for you. It appears as though your's differs from ours. The spot where the furling line turns back towards the forward part of the boom has the notch cut out where on your's it does not. Looks like somebody goofed on your's.
Comment by Mike Brown on March 21, 2009 at 10:10am
Franc, we're heading over to do some work on ours. We expect to be launched some time next week. I wrote a note to check on our furler line. Although we've not sailed her much I can still check for potential issues. I'll let you know what I find.
Mike
Comment by CAN DRAC on March 21, 2009 at 9:26am
For those of you with Zspars masts and roller furling mains:

See below photo for the chafing problem we are having. It seems that the mainsail outhaul line chafes inside the boom. Do you have the same problem or does it look like your outhaul is mounted different?

I would appreciate your thoughts.

 

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