Zen and the art of sailboat maintenance

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Comment by PCarrico on March 17, 2009 at 7:24pm

h,
That's it.
Go figure, straight from Parker/Racor...
Busy day for me today.
Launched a 66'er that draws 12.5 feet, into a muddy travel lift dock that was 10.5 feet deep.
As soon as the mast was stepped & boom were on the boat, I "plowed" outta there just at high tide.
So far we've got 11 boats launched.
We're sailing the Farr 53 tomorrow.
Anyone in Annapolis want to go sailing at 1300 on Wednesday 18 March?
We're just looking at mast bend with a racing mainsail for some luffcurve ideas on the new mainsail we're building. Back at the dock by 1500.

Comment by h on March 15, 2009 at 10:49pm

Pages from Marine_Turbine_Series.pdf

Pete,

Found it. May be better to get the complete assy.

Comment by PCarrico on March 15, 2009 at 9:02pm

That valve is from 1984, but I'm sure it's in a catalog somewhere...
I'll dig...

Comment by h on March 15, 2009 at 8:51pm

Peter,

I like that Racor 2 x 3 way valve in a single body. Can it be bought separately to the Racor filter total assembly? Looks like it is a Swagelock plug type 3 way valve.

I already have 2 x different brand fuel filters.

Comment by PCarrico on March 14, 2009 at 2:39pm

Here's a photo of the dual Racor fuel filter system. Notice the vacuum gauges for each filter set that helps us know when the filters need service. One filter gets cleaned & replaced while the other filter is aligned. One side main engine, other side for the genset.

Comment by PCarrico on March 14, 2009 at 1:31pm

The Sailright video provides a general concept, but not how I do it.
I always do 2 wraps of webbing, twice as much as the video, but the video may be for a small boat where one pass is adequate, at least for billing purposes.
I most often pass the needle around one side of the webbing, then do the other as it makes a nice clean hole in the middle of the webbing to make passing the needle easier, plus the threads don't get skewered during each pass.
The last thing I always do is to pass a second seizing through the webbing and the bolt rope. This feature puts the rotational (pivot) forces of the webbing onto the slide that eliminates the common webbing chafe point typically between the grommet, headboard or full batten end. That extra seizing at the bolt rope is easy to do yourself to make the webbing last much longer. Use an awl to make the 3 holes needed, then sew the seizing.

Comment by h on March 13, 2009 at 6:32pm

See the link attached from Sailrite on how to attach you sail slide onto the mainsail.

It also recommend both the Ronstan and Allslip slides.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7056916168986843021

Comment by PCarrico on March 12, 2009 at 8:15pm

We buy McLube Sailcoat by the case.
I have two gallon cans of the stuff also.
We always send someone to the top of the mast and have them spray the sail tracks on the way down, using the tube in the nozzle.
If there is a problem with the slides jamming, there might be a problem with the slides.
Allslip slides are good also. Most sailmakers can get them.

Comment by h on March 11, 2009 at 8:37pm

Lola,

The Fastrac system sound OK to me.

You can contact them through this link, and find out where to buy it.

http://www.cylex.ca/company/fastrac-sail-track-lubricant-12302717.html

The system as it is described can clean and lubricate without climbing the mast. Although I don't have a direct experience with it.

May be worth while to tie another piece of rope on your upper most mainsail lug, so you can pull it down. Just in case the cleaner/lubricator is stuck higher up the mast.

Let us know how you go.

Comment by LOLA on March 11, 2009 at 6:14pm

I await your expert comments;;;;this project does not have to be done pronto.

Thank you all.

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