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POST PICTURES TOO IF CAN.

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Yesterday I found out, that my tank was full, and the fuel is dirty, and when thought was out of fuel..it was due to dirty fuel, and a fuel gauge that does not work.

Man coming Weds to pump and filter the fuel through several filters.

Anyone else have done this?
Lola,

LadyE is correct. you need to "polish" your fuel, as well as clean the solids from the bottom of your tank. The solids may appear as a layer of brown sludge sitting at the bottom of the tank.

The best solution may be a hybrid solution.

You need to purchase enough Jerry Cans to store your fuel after polishing.

Whilst the fuel is all out of your fuel tank, you can clean the tank yourself. What is involved is opening the fuel tank round cover, and using a rag, wipe the whole tank bottom clean out of the brown sludge. Keep on cleaning until the inside is totally clean. Use new rag or rinse the rag in clean fuel if you have to.

If you do not have a round cover to access the tank, you need to access it from the fuel level transmitter.

If all that sounds too much hard work, you can pay someone to do the complete job.

Howard
http://www.chlorfreeglobal.com/bioguard-diesel.htmFUEL STABILIZER
The following is a couple paragraphs from above website.
Since diesel fuel is a blend of many different hydrocarbons consisting of various sized colloidal particles, the small, less stable particles have a tendency to fall out of the solution. When they do, they unite with other similar sized less stable particles to form a particulate. The process continues until larger particles form a sludge that can clog fuel filters and ruin injectors.

This sludge forming tendency occurs in all diesel stocks regardless of how fast the fuel is consumed. This is especially true in low sulfur diesel and in fuel that sits for long periods of time. In many cases the problem becomes so severe that the old fuel has to be pumped out, disposed of and the tank cleaned a very costly and time consuming process. Bell's Super Premium DEE-ZOL prevents fuel stratification and eliminates sludge formation thereby retaining the BTU value in the fuel.



In conclusion, it should be recognized that Bell's Super Premium DEE-ZOL will improve the performance characteristics of all grades of diesel fuel. It may be used in any type of diesel-powered engine, either stationary, vehicular or marine.Once you get the tanks clean you can reduce the likely hood of recontamination by keeping your tanks topped up whenever possible. When tanks are less than (mostly), full the moist air will quickly convert your tanks to a reasonably efficient watermaker - which settles to the bottom of the tank. This is where the critters thrive. A good diesel additive which contains a biocide (I like PSP, Soltron etc.) will help as well. The Algae X magnetic filter element also gets good results. Since 9 out of 10 engine failures can be traced to fuel problems (having twins won't help much), any and everthing you can do, you should do. Bottom line, the best prevention is run the boat a lot and keep adding fresh fuel (not always an option).
Suky, your site here does not come up
yes, this is common with diesel engines on sailboats because you don't use much fuel and a tank can last a year. there is an additive you should put in when you add fuel - anti - fungal or anti - bacterial ... something (the guy cleaning your fuel will know) also, fuel filters will need to be replaced. I assume he will siphon your fuel thru a filter system ... but, he may also need to clean the tank .... research it a little, so you understand what and why .... write Odis - he can tell you some regarding this also. Have him check water filters, also.
Yes Ladye, I was educated yesterday.

The first guy is doing all the fuel sucked through his machine...$100...but another one who is 3 hours by water wants to get into the tank...More expensive too. around $400...We may choose that as our outing?...can do in one day he says, and we can stay overnight if we want...Not a fancy place he says...but i believe he said he has elec, and showers.

Ah its so good to be a retired teacher with money to burn...lol
I have guy friends in the marina that help sometime ... I try to watch, help, learn. I've found that friends tend to turn helping into visiting, which makes work more fun, but you often have to do things on their schedule instead of yours. Even when I call in service techs, I have them walk me thru (often by phone because I can't be there) ....... so much to learn.
GREAT IDEA..I WILL BE THERE, AND I TAKE PICTURES...I THINK I WILL USE TAPE RECORDER TOO
Terri,

You can write me for your maintenance problems.

A good book would be the Boat Owner's Electrical and Mechanical Manual By Nigel Calder.

That is if you like reading techincal stuff.

Howard
Art Dufresne says I can post this for him here...

the NAPA filter is not a RACOR, it is probably the fuel filter on the engine. Those filters do not prevent water from passing through. A RACOR is installed between the fuel tank and the engine.It removes water and filters as minute amounts of water can seriously harm the injectors in a diesel engine. I strongly suggest adding it. Check with the person who will clean your tank...actually the cleaners usually use large RACORs to clean your fuel. They are the standard in the marine industry. It's not a hard or expensive job to get one installed. You can do it yourself if you are handy with tools and it's adviseable that all skippers know how to change the RACOR filter...it's that important. The result of a clogged or dirty filter is loss of engine power, or complete loss of the engine....usually just when you need it the mos

Yes I can change the filter....I have my own 79 MGB lol..and it runs great...even the clock works..ha ha ...I helped changing it yesterday on the boat
i have had fuel polished vbefore----works great--he even did the tanks---i was fortunate to be by a dock for this---needs electricity for the polishing---one is able to build a polishing system into one's own boat---using the same filters and pumps --just plumb it in and i think the man i knew who built one used 6 filters and 3 pumps to move the diesel fuel around and clean it before going into his engine from the tanks--he could also polish it without using his engine-----i am not certain exactly how he did this part-was using the ignition key to run the pumps first before starting engine...like starting a good sporty car.... a mechanically minded dood should be able to figger it out-----my fuel has been good since then--i always put biocide into mine---some diesel treatment liquid--makes a diufference in the operation of the boat--much more reliable-----goood luck---works well.....
As a single woman boat owner, I tend to do most jobs myself. I do get help from the guys on the dock when I need real muscle/brawn or just knowledge on how to do things. Fuel polishing should be done once a year if you never used your tank during that year. Of course use biocide agents will help. If you have never bleed your engine, you should learn how to do this. One of the most important things to know how to do on your engine.
I just took out my transmission to ship back to Yanmar for work. I am so proud of myself on this. I got quotes for doing this job up to $800 to take in and out. It took me a whole two hours. Of course I needed a little help from one of my dockmates to pull the muffler hose off but other than that I did it myself. We gals can do it. Just takes patience, studying and asking questions to those that have the knowledge. What I have out is most people in both the sailboat world and maintenance folks don't mind sharing that knowledge. Most will help out with the project if one just asks.
Next job for me is to take out my depth instrument to ship back to Raymarine, get mainsail fix, and finish installing all the gear to run my spinnaker. Of course this doesn't include the monthly stuff that I do all the time.

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