How did you do it? What process? Please Post Photos if Can

[LOLA]

State your process

[LOLA]

I made my own stain from acrylic paint, and sanded the worn sections to smooth over to good areas.Then applied my homemade stain, I then put Polyurathane, high gloss over. I waited a day and applied a 2nd coat. I also used sanding sponges...they were form fitting to the shapes.

[___/)ances With Sails]

after sanding laborously, and cleaned area very well, have worked with cetol usin penetol to keep it flowin in humid air(about a capful to a 1/4 of small starbuck cup, in texas heat),,,dont use thinner or mineral spirits w/ cetol it will break it down,,clean up with acetone on lentless rag usin tact cloth to get th lent, dust and boogers,,,apply from dry to wet (direction)

Varnish, use mineral spirits or thinner is o.k. to delay kicking

p.s. dont proceed if brush gets to stiff to work product, clean brush often as needed

once dry, for either, use denatured alcohol to clean after scuffin (scuff if need to remove crap that fell in yer work...) ,,,denatured alcohol wont break down the aplication


did some wood work last summer, thats what i remember

[LOLA]

Louis, do you have photos?

[___/)ances With Sails]

no, did a sole and exterior around doors,,,didnt think to take pics,

[zeehag]

i use sea water to clean and then i use teakoil for the finish. i do this every year. looks goood and doesnt take a lot of work. also doesnt grind down my teak caprail...teak is over 80 dollars per board foot--relacing is a drag--i prevent having to replace! i donot like shiny wood.

[Liv]

All of our bright work is done with several applications of automotive clear.
We found it the most durable. Once applied we don't need to re-do it any more as the clear has UV protection in it,like any automotive paint. It's made to last and stay on. It has a high gloss finish.

We have a very long, wooden,mahogany rudder, which is in the water all summer. It is also finished in automotive clear and we have no problems with the finish peeling of .

The clear works best with raw wood that has been sanded down of all previous paints and varnishes. It's not a product that is easily available but we work in vintage car restorations and have the product available to us.

I know this finish is controversial with boat owners but it works for us as we don't want to constantly having to work on bright work.

[Liv]

Picture of the rudder

[LOLA]

Liv this photo says a lot...a photo contest contender?

Beautiful lighting.

[LOLA]

Liv, does in come in a spray can, or reg can? Where can I buy it?

[Liv]

Lola,
the product we use does not come in a spray can and is only available from automotive paint suppliers. We spray the clear on with a high density, low volume spray gun and use a compressor. Also, this type of paint is highly toxic when wet and you would need proper protection and a professional face/breathing mask when you work with this paint.
I can only recommend it only for someone who is familiar with spaying automotive paints.

I tell you one thing though.. once applied, its super durable but wood needs to be very well prepped and sanded down to bare before the clear goes on. So, there's a bit of sanding to do. We use nothing else and have no wear on the finish.

[___/)ances With Sails]

oh yeah, forgot to mention, th work was done on anothers boat so they could sell it, i was helpin,,,,,,,,,,hey i went down and took my boat out today, 20+ kts, and choppier 'n hell, will sleep good tonite

[Mstrsail]

We have used many things over the last couple decades and when prepped right they all come out looking great. For the last ten years we have used Bristol finish and have no complaints at all with it, it is tough and long lasting and has an impressive shine to it.

http://www.star-distributing.com/howtoguides/brightwork4step.html