Cutlass bearing

[Fred McNeil]

We just pulled out 43 for bottom paint and the yard stated that the cutlass bearing appears worn and should be replaced. They demonstrated about an 1/8" play by pushing up on the prop. I know this is a soft bearing, not like a bronze hard bearing, but what's the experience on when to replace this? We have 120 hours on a 2008. Seem like we should get a few more years out of it and we have no vibration at any rpm.

Anyone change their bearing and did you also replace the dry bearing at the engine at the same time?

The boat sure looks bigger out of the water...

Thanks,

Fred

[Pieter Wybro]

Fred, that seems to be considerable play, and may be due to the shaft not properly aligned with the engine.  Suggest you replace the cutlass bearing while the boat is on the hard, and that you check the shaft alignment after you are back in the water (do not do this on the hard due to change in hull flexure).  You can do this by disconnecting the shaft from the engine coupler and seeing how eccentric the shaft is from the hole in the coupler.  If it needs adjustment, this can be done by adjusting the motor mounts.  I had to do this to my 40 which is a 2010.

Pete Wybro

 

 

[foster]

Hello,

Are you also changing the seal at the same time. At the Paris boat show I saw a PSS shaft seal that seems to be good but a real world feed back would be interesting.

By the way :

I notice on some pictures that many B40/43 in the US have a rub rail on the hull below the teak toe rail, like yours Pete. Did you have this as an add on ? What is the reference ?

Thanks

Denis Foster

[Fred McNeil]

Denis

As you'll probably see in my response to Pete, we are replacing the Cutlass and will just relubricate the upper bearing seal after aligning the engine and shaft.

We also have a rub rail, I've enclosed a picture I took yesterday when we hauled her. We had it done by the Beneteau brokerage as part of the overall deal so I can't give you a price breakdown. its been very worthwhile but we still have strike plates along the rub rail as well as key points at the deck transition to the rub rail, next to the cleats.

Fred

 

 

[foster]

Thank you, very nicely done.

Denis

[Fred McNeil]

Pete,

I will be having the cutlass replaced. For $200, it isn't worth pulling it a year from now if it goes bad. I also plan on checking the alignment as you suggested. I was also told to lube the upper lip seal while boat is out of the water. From what I was told from Beneteau, the seals run about five years, some "substancially longer". I think its tied more to hours and environment than to time.

Thanks

Fred

[Alan]

Fred,

 

I had my 43 out of the water a couple of months ago for bottom paint and I had the Beneteau service department look at the play in the cutlass bearing.  He said a small amount of play in common for the Beneteau line.  If you want to give him a quick call to confirm, his name is Brad at First Yachts in Vancouver, British Columbia,  604.924.4841 He knows his stuff.   Also if Brad is not available, Adam can help you out with some feedback.

 

 

[Fred McNeil]

 Alan,

 

I also contacted Beneteau service locally and they gave me their general rule of 1/10 allowance for play for every increment of shaft diameter. So a 30mm shaft is allowed 3mm of play.

I appreciate the additional contacts and resources, its always good to have.

Thanks

Fred