Caicos Bank

[Marlene Anne Sassaman]

As if the Bahama Bank isn't beautiful enough to take your breath away, wait until you sail across the Caicos Bank. With the absence of wind the ocean is crystal clear. Having to motor most of the way along this 75 mile passage, it was a pleasure to drift along. My arrival at an anchorage sheltered from the slightly southeastern breeze came after 30 hours of  sail. To be more accurate SPRAY lives up to her constant reminder by my Everglades City friend that she is a motor/sailor. Everytime I put the diesel to work I silently cringe. Please wind veer or back and /or increase in speed so we can make some upwind progress. 

After 7 hours from leaving Hog Sty Reef, my prayer was answered. The wind picked up allowing SPRAY to cruise comfortably in the 8 knot range. From about 4 pm until dark it was sailing at its best. Then, as the night sky darkened, the wind went somewhere we were not. All night Danny Diesel cranked us along. By the time I dropped the anchor in the South Side Bay I was rewarded with a nice nap. Thirty hours with several cat naps keeps me moving. When we stop, body and soul slip into a deep sleep. 

A few hours later I awakened enough to read. No way was I going to launch the dink, row to shore, climb a hill, then meander over to customs. Fortunately, I was left alone. The next morning I weighed the anchor and did a test sail over to the Caicos Marina and Shipyard. With the narrow twisted channel bordered by rocky shores only about 75 feet wide, SPRAY and I chose to anchor a mile downwind in open water.

It was a perfect spot. With a depth of five feet of flat crystal clear water, cleaning the bottom was easier than ever. This despite the barnacles and tree like red mossy stuff that resembled the beginnings of a forest. Being as it was Sunday the marina did not answer my VHS radio calls. They are listed as a Port of Entry so I took a chance and waited until today to check in with customs and immigration.

Arriving at the dock I was greeted by Omar, the kindly dock master. A young man barely out of high school, Omar politely gave me the grand tour of the shipyard. Only, of course, after the customs lady stopped by followed by the immigration officer. It is an interesting set up. As I finally understand it, customs is about the boat. Immigration is about the people. The brochure states all firearms must be turned in. There was a $50 fee for customs to allow a 7 day stay. If the electric isn't fixed in 7 days, I will be not as happy as I should be. After all it's not like I am still in Boot Key.

Think about it, I am in the Turks and Caicos. I got here as a result of many helpers. Some were mechanical, some electrical, some sailing savvy, one held a romantic interest and most provide invaluable moral support. Although I sail solo and am lonely at times, I am not alone. 

The fact is with gps and modern sea going vessels it is fairly simple way to travel. If only my dern masthead running and anchor lights worked. They are the reason I am at a dock, yuk, a dock. Actually, it isn't too terrible here at the Caicos Marina and Shipyard. The dock has that nice plastic bumper material. The office manager offered her vehicle as a courtesy car for going to town. A French couple on a nice 45 foot Catamaran have been gracious.

One trick the French husband showed me saved my day from utter frustration. I could not get the oil filter wrench to grip the old oil filter. It was bent up a bit from poor storage in the tool bin. This caused it to be out of round. In other words instead of making a nice circle to slip over the oil filter. It had creases in it making weird angles. In desperation I asked for advice. He suggested I put tape around the filter so the wrench could get a better grip. Well, well, well, what do you know. One wrap of good old duct tape did not do the trick. Going on the 'more is better principle' I added a second wrap. Guess what? With one little tug the oil filter was unscrewed. 

Tomorrow the three of us are off the the Do It Yourself Store, a marine supply store and hopefully a roadside fruit and vegetable stand. The first item on my list is a new oil filter wrench, then lots of bug spray. In my 60+ days tonight is the first night of no see ums and mosquitos. Like in Everglades City the no seems only hung around during sunset. Now, in the black of night, even the mosquitos are in retreat.

There is so much that is just falling off my fingers. Guess my gift for gab has been transferred to blabbing on the blog. For tonight, at least for now, I will say, thank you for your support. Life is Good!  

(pictures are taking way too long to upload-will try again later or tomorrow)