LOLA. What you need to do is to see what you motor will run up to in the slip not in gear. Record that, then take it out and run it at wto (wide open throttle) and record that. They should be very close, if rpm is lower, you have to much prop pitch. I have an adjustable pitch prop and pitch it just about 100 rpm under wto. That is then about the correct pitch.
Am I ok with this answer, when asked what were the results of the Compression test?
Remember I need your support...Thank you all.
We did not do a compression test, as the problems lead to other areas. The leak down test, the replacement of the valves (reconditioning the head includes testing for leaks and faults), etc. would show a fault that would cause low compression. If the compression was now low, you would expect the engine to be hard to start, smoke, esp. when cold, show pressure in the base or valve cover. In as much as the engine has no problem, even when run in an over prop condition, I would see no reason to be concerned.
I assume you have a diesel. The statement is a bit garbled but essentially correct.
Since a diesel starts and runs solely on compression, poor compression would make it hard to start when cold. So if it starts right up when cold the compression is fine. Low compression when running would translate to low power under load (in gear).
You can still have lots of smoke when you start it, but when warm it should not smoke excessively. It should also be able to power the boat at a reasonable rate of speed (whatever is typical for that boat) without either the engine overheating or excessive smoke after running for some time.
Exhaust color is also an indicator. Black exhaust means you're spitting unburned fuel out. That means the injectors may need cleaning, adjustment or replacement. White exhaust can mean water is getting into the engine and can be an indicator of serious issues.
A good surveyor checks all this, plus more, during sea trial. (I'm not a surveyor)
When engine is starting well, running well, can achieve full RPM when under load, not smoking, not overheating, then leave it alone.
They are crude devices, that do not have to be abolutely perfect to perform reasonably well.
You should see my engine. It needed a lot of work, like painting and injector recalibration. But I have not done it yet. I leave it alone, because it is running well enough. The fixes it needed are only cosmetic.
I had the opportunity to sit in on that Mac Boring class a few years ago. It'll give you a good understanding of whats going when your engine is running. It was given by a guy with a great chunk of knowledge and he shared it in simple terms without making anyone feel stupid.
Lola,
When the diver puts the prop back on, have the diver measure the distance between the prop hub and the prop strut. Then, on the engine, measure the distance of the movement of the engine mounts by measuring something on the front or rear of the engine, with something in front or aft of the engine that is stationary. Another way to do that is to make the measurements between the coupling at the aft end of the gearbox to the shaft log. Do whatever's easier.
Make one measurement with the engine off, then the next measurement with the engine at WOT in forward gear and compare the difference between the two measurements, and compare those measurements with the gap between the prop and the strut. There should be at least 3/16th's of an inch of a gap between the prop and the strut so the cutlass bearing keeps cool with seawater flow through the bearing, and especially that the prop does not rub on the strut. There would also be some noise at the strut if there was rubbing contact.
I am at the end of my wits...had the whole upper part of engine rebuilt.
Rpms still not up.
So they were to alter my 3 blade prop...now this.
They have had my boat for going on 4 months.
latest report now::
Lola, The blades are not going to bend to allow for the pitch change. We can cut down the diameter instead, but that will decrease power, not really what we want. We need to find a prop sized 13 x 9 x 1 right hand, 3 blade in a sailboat configuration. I'll have a quote on new while I look for a used one. Thanks, George
Lola,
The prop has deteriorated so that the blades will break off if we try to bend them to reduce pitch. We are going to cut the down.
This will allow the engine to reach the desired RPM. We will try to be ready for a final test on Monday.
Thanks,
George
UPDATE
Ok Hi all, I went to look at my 3 blade, and he showed me where there were cracks, near the base, indicating sooner or later that could cause a blade to break off.I have pictures of it..but I can't figure out how to load pictures on either site...I can email them to anyone who wants a look let me know..it had been cleaned w the prop guys marks on it.
Boartyard had quoted me $200 as he knows I'm at my end wits here...that would be to repitch/cut whatever and put back on boat...that was the direction we were going.
Sailor friend I was with ,thinks I should replace it w a 3 blade used or new.
boatyard said they can get a used out of Fla..(I believe a Larry) a 12.5 x 12..1.5 too big.for $325 a Dino Jet,---he feels we need a 13 x 9 1 in bore R hand 3 blade sailor.
From Mich we can get a 3 MP Machine Pitch.
If I don't just have them put the old one on, I'm looking at $600.00
RPM's when tested on dock and out in ICW with what I have is 3113 and 3160 at load
Ok therein is my update...need advice. He is willing on me finding a prop and having it sent to him...if you can guide me there/ Or should I just have him put he old one on.? The crack I saw was a hairline about 1/4 inch..
Call these highly rated prop and zinc guys ~ Bossler & Sweezey. (I have no vested interest but they were one of my contractors when I worked at marina). You can trust them and they know their stuff.
http://www.bosslerandsweezey.com/
At the least, they are happy to speak to you on the phone for advice.
Company and kind I got FIXED CAMPBELL
Welcome to West by North Enterprises
We specialize in sales of low-drag fixed and feathering blade propellers for sailing craft of all sizes.
Campbell Sailer The Campbell Sailer propeller is designed and manufactured to be one of the most efficient fixed blade sailboat propellers on the market today. Unique and innovative, it has been granted a Canadian patent.
After nearly thirty years of production and refinement, the Campbell Sailer has proven, against other leading fixed blade designs, to be a superior choice for sailboat owners.
Nice to see there's a place to learn about real world boat maintenance. So I'm just a beginner and checking out boats for first time buy. Any suggestions on what is best type for bluewater cruising?
Yes, I will keep my old 3 blade, and the orig 2 blade. Both very deteriorated. The 2 blade actually has a nice aqua antique finish...a great coffee table work of art...until I go on long trip, then both spares will go in boat..
I just want all this to STOP ...this has just been too much at once for a retired teacher...retirement pay. I am grateful for Visa for the 1.99% for a ...year...hope I get it paid off by then I had $6000 on house roof, car repairs $700, prop $600, Engine $5000...this was all in 3 months....ouch....Plus I have a sick loving pet cat that I may have to out down, due to I may have poisoned her...so I need calm, and rest from all of this.
Pardon for my venting...but those of you who have advised, it is what helped me get through. Thank you.
Hauled the big Z today. Only about a million little barnacles on the Baltoplate.
They'll all scrape off, then we wetsand, more paint then wetsand some more...
Oh...oh... I think I have barnicles and other critters clogging my galley (never used, kept seacock closed) thru hull. Tried to winterize...poured about 6oz pink stuff down....only a bit when down, rest pooled in sink. Think they were painted in spring. Will check at haul out in a week or so and do the screwdriver scrap I guess...any suggestions??? Thank you
I need to have zipper replaced on mains'l cover (part that wraps around mast). Haven't been thrilled ever with plastic or whatever it is. What's best to use? Thank you, Terri
the lowest ?teeth are coming loose..or missing..have to fight with it to get it up. Haven't thought of velcro..not under much tension..something i can do...velcro ..and duct tape..... :-) thanks!
At first when I started to read your post..thought u were going on an 8 week sailing trip..too bad you aren't. 71 degrees very nice! What godforsaken part of the world are u going to??? lol..hopefully a nice place or where they wear alot of red and the beer is cheap :-)
i think we're gonna get demerits for posting here...with idle chit chat...i'm pleading exhaustion from taking care of a three year old... quick u better think up something..
You need to get the thread for sewing sails. Then get your sewing machine out.
Get whatever you can get. Plastic zippers or Velcro or snap lock joiners. Sew it on, and never look back.
I have fixed sails and spinnakers with that thread. A whole spinnaker that is completely ripped from head to clew. Just with a standard sewing machine in the zig zag mode.
Sailrite.com is a good starting point.
Greetings from Shanghai. No one to have dinner with tonight. Worst thing about travelling.
I am not home, so can not double check. But I believe the V46 is the thicker material that will last longer. The V92 is too thin. I have two spools at home, just can not remember which two.
The white ones I have at home is actually slightly yellow. If you want to be colour coordinated (important to all the women skippers out there) just use the V92 which matches your sail cover.
Boat going in on Friday hopefully. Bottom painting & waxing/polish weds. What can I use on the deck ...is chaulky, needs protection. Have non-skid on most surfaces u walk on. Can u buff /polish.. do anything without the slip /break yer neck factor??? I want it shiny! LOL
zeehag
May 5, 2009
h
Was one of the Connecting Rods came loose from the crank shaft?
The casing hole can be easily welded shut.
Depending on what other damage did the loose conrod did to your engine, it may be salvageable.
h
May 13, 2009
LOLA
Checking RPM's...still not as should be...next modification of the Prop...more to follow
May 13, 2009
h
What RPM can you get with the current Prop?
What is the mechanics target RPM, before he say that all is OK?
h
May 13, 2009
Randy
May 13, 2009
LOLA
at Neutral his was 3793
I had the first diver go down and no zincs and he put on 2zincs...he said bottom was not too dirty.
2nd diver to go down and get the 3 blade propeller off and it will be re pitched...and then another rpm check
I will keep all posted here.
@nd
May 14, 2009
LOLA
Remember I need your support...Thank you all.
We did not do a compression test, as the problems lead to other areas. The leak down test, the replacement of the valves (reconditioning the head includes testing for leaks and faults), etc. would show a fault that would cause low compression. If the compression was now low, you would expect the engine to be hard to start, smoke, esp. when cold, show pressure in the base or valve cover. In as much as the engine has no problem, even when run in an over prop condition, I would see no reason to be concerned.
May 20, 2009
Art Dufresne
Since a diesel starts and runs solely on compression, poor compression would make it hard to start when cold. So if it starts right up when cold the compression is fine. Low compression when running would translate to low power under load (in gear).
You can still have lots of smoke when you start it, but when warm it should not smoke excessively. It should also be able to power the boat at a reasonable rate of speed (whatever is typical for that boat) without either the engine overheating or excessive smoke after running for some time.
Exhaust color is also an indicator. Black exhaust means you're spitting unburned fuel out. That means the injectors may need cleaning, adjustment or replacement. White exhaust can mean water is getting into the engine and can be an indicator of serious issues.
A good surveyor checks all this, plus more, during sea trial. (I'm not a surveyor)
May 20, 2009
h
When engine is starting well, running well, can achieve full RPM when under load, not smoking, not overheating, then leave it alone.
They are crude devices, that do not have to be abolutely perfect to perform reasonably well.
You should see my engine. It needed a lot of work, like painting and injector recalibration. But I have not done it yet. I leave it alone, because it is running well enough. The fixes it needed are only cosmetic.
h
May 20, 2009
LOLA
It's just that I have so much invested, with little knowledge...but I am learning.
I feel better with the comments i am receiving.
Max Boring offers diesel Yanmar classes, 45 min from me. $400, but worth it...so when i get funds, I'll take the course..
May 20, 2009
Veranda
I had the opportunity to sit in on that Mac Boring class a few years ago. It'll give you a good understanding of whats going when your engine is running. It was given by a guy with a great chunk of knowledge and he shared it in simple terms without making anyone feel stupid.
It will remove a lot of the mystery for you.
Bill
May 20, 2009
LOLA
I want to be a knowledgeable sailor....
May 21, 2009
PCarrico
When the diver puts the prop back on, have the diver measure the distance between the prop hub and the prop strut. Then, on the engine, measure the distance of the movement of the engine mounts by measuring something on the front or rear of the engine, with something in front or aft of the engine that is stationary. Another way to do that is to make the measurements between the coupling at the aft end of the gearbox to the shaft log. Do whatever's easier.
Make one measurement with the engine off, then the next measurement with the engine at WOT in forward gear and compare the difference between the two measurements, and compare those measurements with the gap between the prop and the strut. There should be at least 3/16th's of an inch of a gap between the prop and the strut so the cutlass bearing keeps cool with seawater flow through the bearing, and especially that the prop does not rub on the strut. There would also be some noise at the strut if there was rubbing contact.
May 23, 2009
LOLA
Rpms still not up.
So they were to alter my 3 blade prop...now this.
They have had my boat for going on 4 months.
latest report now::
Lola, The blades are not going to bend to allow for the pitch change. We can cut down the diameter instead, but that will decrease power, not really what we want. We need to find a prop sized 13 x 9 x 1 right hand, 3 blade in a sailboat configuration. I'll have a quote on new while I look for a used one. Thanks, George
Need advice Please.
Anyone have the one I need?
Thank you
Lola SV SUVAROV Freedom 30
May 29, 2009
LOLA
Lola,
The prop has deteriorated so that the blades will break off if we try to bend them to reduce pitch. We are going to cut the down.
This will allow the engine to reach the desired RPM. We will try to be ready for a final test on Monday.
Thanks,
George
May 29, 2009
LOLA
Ok Hi all, I went to look at my 3 blade, and he showed me where there were cracks, near the base, indicating sooner or later that could cause a blade to break off.I have pictures of it..but I can't figure out how to load pictures on either site...I can email them to anyone who wants a look let me know..it had been cleaned w the prop guys marks on it.
Boartyard had quoted me $200 as he knows I'm at my end wits here...that would be to repitch/cut whatever and put back on boat...that was the direction we were going.
Sailor friend I was with ,thinks I should replace it w a 3 blade used or new.
boatyard said they can get a used out of Fla..(I believe a Larry) a 12.5 x 12..1.5 too big.for $325 a Dino Jet,---he feels we need a 13 x 9 1 in bore R hand 3 blade sailor.
From Mich we can get a 3 MP Machine Pitch.
If I don't just have them put the old one on, I'm looking at $600.00
RPM's when tested on dock and out in ICW with what I have is 3113 and 3160 at load
Ok therein is my update...need advice. He is willing on me finding a prop and having it sent to him...if you can guide me there/ Or should I just have him put he old one on.? The crack I saw was a hairline about 1/4 inch..
May 31, 2009
Suky Cannon
http://www.bosslerandsweezey.com/
At the least, they are happy to speak to you on the phone for advice.
May 31, 2009
LOLA
Welcome to West by North Enterprises
We specialize in sales of low-drag fixed and feathering blade propellers for sailing craft of all sizes.
Campbell Sailer The Campbell Sailer propeller is designed and manufactured to be one of the most efficient fixed blade sailboat propellers on the market today. Unique and innovative, it has been granted a Canadian patent.
After nearly thirty years of production and refinement, the Campbell Sailer has proven, against other leading fixed blade designs, to be a superior choice for sailboat owners.
Jun 1, 2009
Heidi
Jun 1, 2009
LOLA
What ever you do have 2 surveys..one on boat and one on engine expert surveyor on the ENGINE
Jun 1, 2009
h
Have you kept the old prop for spare. If you are thinking about going far away with your boat, it would be good to have a spare prop.
1/4" long hairline crack may be fixable, but would certainly be better than having no prop.
Jun 4, 2009
LOLA
I just want all this to STOP ...this has just been too much at once for a retired teacher...retirement pay. I am grateful for Visa for the 1.99% for a ...year...hope I get it paid off by then I had $6000 on house roof, car repairs $700, prop $600, Engine $5000...this was all in 3 months....ouch....Plus I have a sick loving pet cat that I may have to out down, due to I may have poisoned her...so I need calm, and rest from all of this.
Pardon for my venting...but those of you who have advised, it is what helped me get through. Thank you.
Jun 4, 2009
LOLA
Campbell Sailor Propeller 14 x 8 x 1
Jun 5, 2009
LOLA
Jun 11, 2009
LOLA
Jun 11, 2009
Terri
Jun 11, 2009
PCarrico
Hopefully so...
Jun 16, 2009
LOLA
Jun 16, 2009
h
Watch out for those picture frames.
Anything else that is fragile will brake in a boat.
Have fun. We like to hear that you are having fun sailing, not only maintaining the boat.
Jun 17, 2009
PCarrico
They'll all scrape off, then we wetsand, more paint then wetsand some more...
Jun 17, 2009
LOLA
Jun 17, 2009
h
If you are using these PC based software and charts, please share your experience with it.
Sep 23, 2009
Terri
Nov 1, 2009
Bob Chaisson
Dec 31, 2009
John Stowell
Mar 2, 2010
Terri
Mar 9, 2010
Terri
Mar 9, 2010
Terri
Mar 9, 2010
Terri
Mar 9, 2010
Terri
Mar 9, 2010
h
You need to get the thread for sewing sails. Then get your sewing machine out.
Get whatever you can get. Plastic zippers or Velcro or snap lock joiners. Sew it on, and never look back.
I have fixed sails and spinnakers with that thread. A whole spinnaker that is completely ripped from head to clew. Just with a standard sewing machine in the zig zag mode.
Sailrite.com is a good starting point.
Greetings from Shanghai. No one to have dinner with tonight. Worst thing about travelling.
Mar 23, 2010
h
I am not home, so can not double check. But I believe the V46 is the thicker material that will last longer. The V92 is too thin. I have two spools at home, just can not remember which two.
The white ones I have at home is actually slightly yellow. If you want to be colour coordinated (important to all the women skippers out there) just use the V92 which matches your sail cover.
Good Luck
Mar 23, 2010
Terri
Mar 23, 2010
Terri
Apr 12, 2010
h
http://www.pachena.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB9QoHeUHTY
Apr 21, 2010
Terri
Apr 21, 2010
h
http://seaknots.ning.com/group/mapsmapseverywhere
h
Aug 2, 2010
Al Voisine
I need a dodger for my 27 ft ODay. Is making one a realistic project?
Will eventually want to install a hard bimini also, so I can carry solar panels.
Feb 21, 2012
Mark (Voodoo Acrobat)
Al, have you seen this link on making a dodger? This fellow did a nice job.
http://yogaandboatmaintenance.weebly.com/1/post/2010/5/diy-designin...
Feb 22, 2012
LOLA
Is this group still available h ?
Dec 15, 2015