HELLO..SEE MY DISCUSSION ON LUBRICATING MY SAIL TRACK ON CARBON FIBER MAST
I BOUGHT SAILKOTE BY MCLUBE.
QUESTION ..HOW DO I KEEP THE SOAKED RAG AT THE TOP OF THE FIRST SAIL CLIP AS I RAISE THE MAIN SAIL UP AND DOWN THE MAST? IT SAYS IT'S DRY LUBRICANT....
The system as it is described can clean and lubricate without climbing the mast. Although I don't have a direct experience with it.
May be worth while to tie another piece of rope on your upper most mainsail lug, so you can pull it down. Just in case the cleaner/lubricator is stuck higher up the mast.
We buy McLube Sailcoat by the case.
I have two gallon cans of the stuff also.
We always send someone to the top of the mast and have them spray the sail tracks on the way down, using the tube in the nozzle.
If there is a problem with the slides jamming, there might be a problem with the slides.
Allslip slides are good also. Most sailmakers can get them.
The Sailright video provides a general concept, but not how I do it.
I always do 2 wraps of webbing, twice as much as the video, but the video may be for a small boat where one pass is adequate, at least for billing purposes.
I most often pass the needle around one side of the webbing, then do the other as it makes a nice clean hole in the middle of the webbing to make passing the needle easier, plus the threads don't get skewered during each pass.
The last thing I always do is to pass a second seizing through the webbing and the bolt rope. This feature puts the rotational (pivot) forces of the webbing onto the slide that eliminates the common webbing chafe point typically between the grommet, headboard or full batten end. That extra seizing at the bolt rope is easy to do yourself to make the webbing last much longer. Use an awl to make the 3 holes needed, then sew the seizing.
Here's a photo of the dual Racor fuel filter system. Notice the vacuum gauges for each filter set that helps us know when the filters need service. One filter gets cleaned & replaced while the other filter is aligned. One side main engine, other side for the genset.
I like that Racor 2 x 3 way valve in a single body. Can it be bought separately to the Racor filter total assembly? Looks like it is a Swagelock plug type 3 way valve.
h,
That's it.
Go figure, straight from Parker/Racor...
Busy day for me today.
Launched a 66'er that draws 12.5 feet, into a muddy travel lift dock that was 10.5 feet deep.
As soon as the mast was stepped & boom were on the boat, I "plowed" outta there just at high tide.
So far we've got 11 boats launched.
We're sailing the Farr 53 tomorrow.
Anyone in Annapolis want to go sailing at 1300 on Wednesday 18 March?
We're just looking at mast bend with a racing mainsail for some luffcurve ideas on the new mainsail we're building. Back at the dock by 1500.
Wow Pete, and I have small challenges compared to yours...Here is my latest of what I can do to solve mine.
To all ,I welcome ideas on what I can do ...maybe 3 options please..from less expensive to most expensive...give me approx prices....I only have so much $ on my teacher retirement and just putting an $8000 roof on my house....need to do what I can.
I continue to have a problem with Dirty Fuel.in spite of just having it polished...We were able to get the boat back to the slip...So now I am shut down until I get this problem solved once and for all...I will be seeking help on my options...To start I plan to have the tank removed to flush it and throw all the fuel out of the full tanK, and maybe a dual filter set up if possible in my set up.I believe I have photos on the area in this GROUP. If you request a certain Photo, I can load it.
Here I am learning to sail and have this continuing problem..It is so frustrating.
Lola,
Instead of got thru the GREAT expense of having your tank removed and cleaned, you can remove and filter all the fuel and put a cleaning port in the top of the tank and clean it out while empty. The PO of my boat added a 10" chrome deck plate to the fuel tank for inspection/cleaning. Only problem was, he didn't remove the fuel and contaminated it with the fiberglass from cutting the hole. I had to remove and clan the fuel and wipe out the tank. No problems since. Am going to install a second Raycor for fuel polishing and backup bypass. I would think that installing a port would be cheaper than pulling the tank and would be more useful in the long run.
Two things you need to consider.
1) The craianal entrapped insurance companies require the shielded (explosion proof) filters in the engine compartment and some (those that are way up there) require the filters not be in the engine compartment at all. This is so when your diesel explodes (do they ???) and you boat is sinking butt first like a rock, you won't get burned in the ensuing diesel fire. Some daft, paranoid dipstick came up with this one.
2) It is not necessary to have the twin filter assembly, to have dual filters. You can set up the filters anywhere and connect them by hoses. The important thing is to have a continuous rise from the tank to the engine with both filters at the same level. This way the system is almost self bleeding. In other words, no place for air to become trapped in the lines and minimal back flow from the line to the engine. Makes for much less fuss and mess when changing filters etc.. (Always above the tank level, or you'll drain your tank into you bilge when you attempt to change the filter.) Oh yea there is actually a third, the pics don't help all that much at judging space. If you go to Racor's web site, I'm pretty sure they have dimensional layouts of the filters. If that doesn't work, stop by your nearest West Marine with a tape measure. I am putting mine in my lazerette on the opposite side of my bulkhead from the engine. Oh yea, one more thing. Do you know how hard it is to ignore leading comments like "as this is tucked in my Aft area", Gracie? ;-O
I think I will just have the tank washed out and taken out, and have the injectors and lines looked into.
I also feel a lot of men talk down to women sailors beginners or otherwise...I am trying to learn by hands on...I don't do favors for cookies. I will be working along with the engine man, and he will be paid with $....This is in regard to the Gracie comment..It's ok and I won't hold the comment against you..you can still be my friend...and ideas and comments on repairs etc..are very welcome .The name is Lola thats Captain L O L A.
Wasn't meant to offend or be sexist, just humor. My male friends suffer equally as well. Just my burning desire to be a standup comic, nothing personnel. BTW, while the tank is out would be a good time to install a clean out port.
Worn head has to come off...Valve job....... "exhaust going through valves and back into intake valve cross feeding itself"
Filter on engine filter clean...one on the tank had some gunk...but not that bad...replaced. Fuel polished 2 months ago..boat out 3 times since then....injectors and lines hoses checked.
When throttle up... dark black smoke comes out..bad smell...and a layer of black forms 6 ft. on surface of water
Don't make the 16 horse..would have to go w 15 or 18
Can use old transmission and new Yanmar..$5200.00... he is checking on Westerbeake,sp and Universal
Lola, did "they" do a compression test?
Does the engine loose or burn oil?
It sounds like you have some carbon build up issues.
Does the black smoke only come out when the propeller is turning?
Another question would be do you have the right propeller. Too big a prop can also cause black smoke.
Sounds like a big project, and the boat will be out of commission for a while.
We just did an overhaul on that Farr 40 engine. We spent about 1/2 the engine's replacement value in new parts. Probably good. The damage was done by sailing frequently in very wet conditions. I'm modifying the engine box to keep more seawater out. The companionway is right above the engine, and unfortunately the engine gets wet too often. Keel went on nice. Rudder was missing a bearing race, so we're fabricating one. Harken doesn't make them anymore, so no support from Harken.
Monday is going to be crazy... 7 boats, with crew, all needing more preparation before sailing.
Good luck with the engine & fuel tanks. 99$ of all boats only have one racor, so you should be fine with the single system. Locating the filter in an accessible location could make life better. Sometimes an inch difference in location can make a huge difference in ease of maintenance.
Or better coping skills... :)
Thanks to all...great feedback for me....I will take the boat to a boatyard 3 hours from me by water, w another sailor...May use my Tow membership if loose power...using ICW...A Yanmar dealership and Boatyard.
Diesel Engine suppose to last a long time, when properly maintained.
But these days maintenance is so expensive, that sometime it is better to go for the totally new engine, rather than an old engine with repairs. Then you know it will be good for a while.
my current update on engine from the best in area..3rd opinion..the fuel tank has been taken out and cleaned and replaced:
engine has low compression and very thick oil in base. We will remove the head and evaluate the engine condition. Have not yet determined the cause of failure. Options if the engine is severely damaged include rebuild for about $3500, replace with new 14HP for about $8200, replace with 21 HP for about $9000. I will have a better idea on how much damage we have tomorrow. This is worst case guess. This does not include remove and install, freight, etc. Also, the new include new gear, probably NOT needed.
Lola,
Do those prices reflect the core replacement value?
Your old engine is worth $ to the engine remanufacturer.
You could also get a rebuilt short block and put on all the old but good accessories.
Good luck.
Update April 1 / Rust engine damage to cly walls..rust pitting water sitting in engine..fowl injectors, cyl head blow by,.Take engine out bore out the cly out, and rebuild engine or replace the engine.,transmission and head is bad..
Lola,
Ouch!
The water in the cylinders might be from over cranking in attempts to get the engine started. The exhaust system then gets filled with seawater and not blown out by the running engine exhaust to a level that is above the height of the exhaust manifold and the water migrates into a cylinder with an open exhaust valve. Usually at this point the engine won't turn over as the water won't compress, or if you do get it to turn over, it's because the head gasket has given way form the incredible pressure. Having drain plugs in the exhaust muffler is a solution to prevent this situation with hard to start engines. After cranking for a minute, open the drain plug and let the water out. A little water and exhaust gas in the boat won't hurt much. Shutting off the thru hull fitting or at least partially shutting it off will prevent exhaust system flooding.
Both the repair or replacement solution is expensive. The main bearings for the crank shaft should also be replaced, and crank checked for pitting from water being in the engine oil.
Question: was the engine oil milky? That would be from water mixing with the engine lube oil.
You'll be an engine expert after this ordeal.
Good luck,
Pete
Up date, we agreed engine will be rebuilt, on the ares needing.,Valve job, good injectors..turns out one was not installed properly in the past.Pitting on cylinders, repaired..hoses all tune up ...It is decided the boat was never used much and left sitting by last owner.
A big bill. But it is essential that you have a reliable engine.
While you are still talking with the engine mechanics, please try to obtain the knowledge from them on the best way to look after your engine, to suit your boat usage pattern.
They may suggest ways and may be improvements to avoid similar thing happening again in the future.
I will keep you all posted here...I have new photos I will post too...cylinders go to shop today get machined, then the other work, and then check the RPM's in the water.
UPDATE TODAY:
Lola,
We have sent injector and the fuel injection pump to the rebuild shop in New Jersey. The major problem is that the fuel metering adjustment screw on the pump had come loose some time ago and crept out of calibration. There is also a sticking fuel plunger and some old water damage. This shop has the pump test equipment to calibrate and run test the pump after repairs. We should get the pump back next week. You can assure your friends that we will time the pump properly when we install it. I' all let you know what develops
wow--you will love your engine when the work is done and is installed again----yanmar rocks---very reliable once they are correct---just keep zincs in the engine and the engine needs to be used regularly--no sweat then.......goood luck and have fun!!--is just a bit spensive for a minute....but the reliability factor on yanmars is best......
Quick question....after bottom painting, when the boat in Travel lift they'll hit the four spot where cradle stands were....have never heard mentioned, was thinking..the very bottom of keel...are u suppose to paint that also?? Would think so..but have never heard anything about that from any sailing friends.
Terri:
Not sure about salt water but here in Lake Mi, we use VC17 and once in the slings you can paint the pad area and splash asap, Does not affect the paint and is ok in the fall when it comes out, I would think if your using VC Off shore, it would be the same. I only paint about every 3 yrs.
The good news is that the engine starts and runs at the dock. The bad , however, is that the exhaust ell is cracked externally and leaking. The elbows are out of stock, expected to be in the warehouse Monday or Tuesday. We hope to have one before next weekend. I'll keep you posted.
Gosh Lola, Has it been 5 weeks ? I appreciate the update. Your patience is amazing.
Good news but the piece about the bad news - they didn't notice this before ? The exhaust suddenly cracked and started leaking ? I hope there are no more surprises for you. Got to get out there with your first mate !
After the RPM check...my gauge if running higher 124 than real...he said I can just know this and run it at 2900...It tested at 3176 high and 3176 low load..
Now it needs a Fuel lift pump. They think I will be able to sail by week end.
please donot forget to change elbows every 5 years without fail.....
is important....they only last that long---and if raw water cooled--there are zincs inside that need to be changed regularly......important!!....as well as regular maintenance......
That is a different Zinc to the one Zee is referring to.
If the engine is seawater cooled, without fresh water to seawater heat exchanger, there are pencil Zinc anodes going into the engine. These are the one that needs regular replacement.
If your engine has sewater to fresh water heat exchanger and fresh water goes into the engine, these zinc may be there, but will not wear out. IE do not need yearly replacement.
On the topic of Zinc's For those that do not know it. If your in fresh water use magnesium instead of zinc.Zinc's do not protect as well as magnesium does if your boating in fresh water. Just a FYI
belch---the dealer/distributor's recommendations are that the exhaust elbow be changed out every 4-5 yrs---or what happens is as what happened to lolas engine----lola and i both bought boats in which the engines had received poor, if any, maintenance--so, belch, how is YOUR engine running???
LOLA
I BOUGHT SAILKOTE BY MCLUBE.
QUESTION ..HOW DO I KEEP THE SOAKED RAG AT THE TOP OF THE FIRST SAIL CLIP AS I RAISE THE MAIN SAIL UP AND DOWN THE MAST? IT SAYS IT'S DRY LUBRICANT....
I PLAN TO DO IT SEVERAL TIMES
THANK YOU
Mar 9, 2009
h
I read what you want to do without climbing up the mast.
I would not send anything up in the track with the sail. If you accidentally left it behind at the top, you may end up having to climb the mast.
Like Terri said, if you do not want to climb the mast, just spray the lugs when they are all down.
Although the better way is to spray the empty track all the way from top to bottom.
Good Luck.
Mar 10, 2009
LOLA
The candle as interesting...but gummy too...
Heres the site
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/1354-lubricating-mast-track.html
Mar 11, 2009
LOLA
Thank you all.
Mar 11, 2009
h
The Fastrac system sound OK to me.
You can contact them through this link, and find out where to buy it.
http://www.cylex.ca/company/fastrac-sail-track-lubricant-12302717.html
The system as it is described can clean and lubricate without climbing the mast. Although I don't have a direct experience with it.
May be worth while to tie another piece of rope on your upper most mainsail lug, so you can pull it down. Just in case the cleaner/lubricator is stuck higher up the mast.
Let us know how you go.
Mar 11, 2009
PCarrico
I have two gallon cans of the stuff also.
We always send someone to the top of the mast and have them spray the sail tracks on the way down, using the tube in the nozzle.
If there is a problem with the slides jamming, there might be a problem with the slides.
Allslip slides are good also. Most sailmakers can get them.
Mar 12, 2009
h
It also recommend both the Ronstan and Allslip slides.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7056916168986843021
Mar 13, 2009
PCarrico
I always do 2 wraps of webbing, twice as much as the video, but the video may be for a small boat where one pass is adequate, at least for billing purposes.
I most often pass the needle around one side of the webbing, then do the other as it makes a nice clean hole in the middle of the webbing to make passing the needle easier, plus the threads don't get skewered during each pass.
The last thing I always do is to pass a second seizing through the webbing and the bolt rope. This feature puts the rotational (pivot) forces of the webbing onto the slide that eliminates the common webbing chafe point typically between the grommet, headboard or full batten end. That extra seizing at the bolt rope is easy to do yourself to make the webbing last much longer. Use an awl to make the 3 holes needed, then sew the seizing.
Mar 14, 2009
PCarrico
Mar 14, 2009
h
I like that Racor 2 x 3 way valve in a single body. Can it be bought separately to the Racor filter total assembly? Looks like it is a Swagelock plug type 3 way valve.
I already have 2 x different brand fuel filters.
Mar 15, 2009
PCarrico
I'll dig...
Mar 15, 2009
h
Pete,
Found it. May be better to get the complete assy.
Mar 15, 2009
PCarrico
That's it.
Go figure, straight from Parker/Racor...
Busy day for me today.
Launched a 66'er that draws 12.5 feet, into a muddy travel lift dock that was 10.5 feet deep.
As soon as the mast was stepped & boom were on the boat, I "plowed" outta there just at high tide.
So far we've got 11 boats launched.
We're sailing the Farr 53 tomorrow.
Anyone in Annapolis want to go sailing at 1300 on Wednesday 18 March?
We're just looking at mast bend with a racing mainsail for some luffcurve ideas on the new mainsail we're building. Back at the dock by 1500.
Mar 17, 2009
LOLA
To all ,I welcome ideas on what I can do ...maybe 3 options please..from less expensive to most expensive...give me approx prices....I only have so much $ on my teacher retirement and just putting an $8000 roof on my house....need to do what I can.
I continue to have a problem with Dirty Fuel.in spite of just having it polished...We were able to get the boat back to the slip...So now I am shut down until I get this problem solved once and for all...I will be seeking help on my options...To start I plan to have the tank removed to flush it and throw all the fuel out of the full tanK, and maybe a dual filter set up if possible in my set up.I believe I have photos on the area in this GROUP. If you request a certain Photo, I can load it.
Here I am learning to sail and have this continuing problem..It is so frustrating.
Mar 18, 2009
Bob Chaisson
Instead of got thru the GREAT expense of having your tank removed and cleaned, you can remove and filter all the fuel and put a cleaning port in the top of the tank and clean it out while empty. The PO of my boat added a 10" chrome deck plate to the fuel tank for inspection/cleaning. Only problem was, he didn't remove the fuel and contaminated it with the fiberglass from cutting the hole. I had to remove and clan the fuel and wipe out the tank. No problems since. Am going to install a second Raycor for fuel polishing and backup bypass. I would think that installing a port would be cheaper than pulling the tank and would be more useful in the long run.
Mar 18, 2009
LOLA
Do you think I have room for the dual filters in front of the tank?
Mar 18, 2009
LOLA
Mar 18, 2009
Suky
Mar 18, 2009
Bob Chaisson
1) The craianal entrapped insurance companies require the shielded (explosion proof) filters in the engine compartment and some (those that are way up there) require the filters not be in the engine compartment at all. This is so when your diesel explodes (do they ???) and you boat is sinking butt first like a rock, you won't get burned in the ensuing diesel fire. Some daft, paranoid dipstick came up with this one.
2) It is not necessary to have the twin filter assembly, to have dual filters. You can set up the filters anywhere and connect them by hoses. The important thing is to have a continuous rise from the tank to the engine with both filters at the same level. This way the system is almost self bleeding. In other words, no place for air to become trapped in the lines and minimal back flow from the line to the engine. Makes for much less fuss and mess when changing filters etc.. (Always above the tank level, or you'll drain your tank into you bilge when you attempt to change the filter.) Oh yea there is actually a third, the pics don't help all that much at judging space. If you go to Racor's web site, I'm pretty sure they have dimensional layouts of the filters. If that doesn't work, stop by your nearest West Marine with a tape measure. I am putting mine in my lazerette on the opposite side of my bulkhead from the engine. Oh yea, one more thing. Do you know how hard it is to ignore leading comments like "as this is tucked in my Aft area", Gracie? ;-O
Mar 19, 2009
LOLA
I also feel a lot of men talk down to women sailors beginners or otherwise...I am trying to learn by hands on...I don't do favors for cookies. I will be working along with the engine man, and he will be paid with $....This is in regard to the Gracie comment..It's ok and I won't hold the comment against you..you can still be my friend...and ideas and comments on repairs etc..are very welcome .The name is Lola thats Captain L O L A.
Mar 19, 2009
Bob Chaisson
Mar 19, 2009
Bob Chaisson
Mar 19, 2009
LOLA
Filter on engine filter clean...one on the tank had some gunk...but not that bad...replaced. Fuel polished 2 months ago..boat out 3 times since then....injectors and lines hoses checked.
When throttle up... dark black smoke comes out..bad smell...and a layer of black forms 6 ft. on surface of water
Don't make the 16 horse..would have to go w 15 or 18
Can use old transmission and new Yanmar..$5200.00... he is checking on Westerbeake,sp and Universal
Refurbished? where?
Chime in anytime.
Thank you,
Mar 19, 2009
PCarrico
Does the engine loose or burn oil?
It sounds like you have some carbon build up issues.
Does the black smoke only come out when the propeller is turning?
Another question would be do you have the right propeller. Too big a prop can also cause black smoke.
Sounds like a big project, and the boat will be out of commission for a while.
We just did an overhaul on that Farr 40 engine. We spent about 1/2 the engine's replacement value in new parts. Probably good. The damage was done by sailing frequently in very wet conditions. I'm modifying the engine box to keep more seawater out. The companionway is right above the engine, and unfortunately the engine gets wet too often. Keel went on nice. Rudder was missing a bearing race, so we're fabricating one. Harken doesn't make them anymore, so no support from Harken.
Monday is going to be crazy... 7 boats, with crew, all needing more preparation before sailing.
Good luck with the engine & fuel tanks. 99$ of all boats only have one racor, so you should be fine with the single system. Locating the filter in an accessible location could make life better. Sometimes an inch difference in location can make a huge difference in ease of maintenance.
Or better coping skills... :)
Mar 20, 2009
LOLA
Mar 21, 2009
LOLA
Mar 22, 2009
h
Is your current engine also a Yanmar?
Diesel Engine suppose to last a long time, when properly maintained.
But these days maintenance is so expensive, that sometime it is better to go for the totally new engine, rather than an old engine with repairs. Then you know it will be good for a while.
Mar 22, 2009
LOLA
engine has low compression and very thick oil in base. We will remove the head and evaluate the engine condition. Have not yet determined the cause of failure. Options if the engine is severely damaged include rebuild for about $3500, replace with new 14HP for about $8200, replace with 21 HP for about $9000. I will have a better idea on how much damage we have tomorrow. This is worst case guess. This does not include remove and install, freight, etc. Also, the new include new gear, probably NOT needed.
George
Mar 31, 2009
PCarrico
Do those prices reflect the core replacement value?
Your old engine is worth $ to the engine remanufacturer.
You could also get a rebuilt short block and put on all the old but good accessories.
Good luck.
Mar 31, 2009
LOLA
Apr 1, 2009
PCarrico
Ouch!
The water in the cylinders might be from over cranking in attempts to get the engine started. The exhaust system then gets filled with seawater and not blown out by the running engine exhaust to a level that is above the height of the exhaust manifold and the water migrates into a cylinder with an open exhaust valve. Usually at this point the engine won't turn over as the water won't compress, or if you do get it to turn over, it's because the head gasket has given way form the incredible pressure. Having drain plugs in the exhaust muffler is a solution to prevent this situation with hard to start engines. After cranking for a minute, open the drain plug and let the water out. A little water and exhaust gas in the boat won't hurt much. Shutting off the thru hull fitting or at least partially shutting it off will prevent exhaust system flooding.
Both the repair or replacement solution is expensive. The main bearings for the crank shaft should also be replaced, and crank checked for pitting from water being in the engine oil.
Question: was the engine oil milky? That would be from water mixing with the engine lube oil.
You'll be an engine expert after this ordeal.
Good luck,
Pete
Apr 2, 2009
LOLA
Apr 2, 2009
h
A big bill. But it is essential that you have a reliable engine.
While you are still talking with the engine mechanics, please try to obtain the knowledge from them on the best way to look after your engine, to suit your boat usage pattern.
They may suggest ways and may be improvements to avoid similar thing happening again in the future.
Apr 3, 2009
Suky
Apr 3, 2009
LOLA
Apr 3, 2009
LOLA
Apr 3, 2009
LOLA
Apr 3, 2009
LOLA
Lola,
We have sent injector and the fuel injection pump to the rebuild shop in New Jersey. The major problem is that the fuel metering adjustment screw on the pump had come loose some time ago and crept out of calibration. There is also a sticking fuel plunger and some old water damage. This shop has the pump test equipment to calibrate and run test the pump after repairs. We should get the pump back next week. You can assure your friends that we will time the pump properly when we install it. I' all let you know what develops
Apr 17, 2009
zeehag
Apr 17, 2009
Terri
Apr 19, 2009
Randy
Not sure about salt water but here in Lake Mi, we use VC17 and once in the slings you can paint the pad area and splash asap, Does not affect the paint and is ok in the fall when it comes out, I would think if your using VC Off shore, it would be the same. I only paint about every 3 yrs.
Apr 21, 2009
LOLA
Lola,
The good news is that the engine starts and runs at the dock. The bad , however, is that the exhaust ell is cracked externally and leaking. The elbows are out of stock, expected to be in the warehouse Monday or Tuesday. We hope to have one before next weekend. I'll keep you posted.
George
Apr 25, 2009
Suky
Good news but the piece about the bad news - they didn't notice this before ? The exhaust suddenly cracked and started leaking ? I hope there are no more surprises for you. Got to get out there with your first mate !
Apr 26, 2009
LOLA
After the RPM check...my gauge if running higher 124 than real...he said I can just know this and run it at 2900...It tested at 3176 high and 3176 low load..
Now it needs a Fuel lift pump. They think I will be able to sail by week end.
Apr 27, 2009
zeehag
is important....they only last that long---and if raw water cooled--there are zincs inside that need to be changed regularly......important!!....as well as regular maintenance......
Apr 27, 2009
LOLA
Apr 27, 2009
h
That is a different Zinc to the one Zee is referring to.
If the engine is seawater cooled, without fresh water to seawater heat exchanger, there are pencil Zinc anodes going into the engine. These are the one that needs regular replacement.
If your engine has sewater to fresh water heat exchanger and fresh water goes into the engine, these zinc may be there, but will not wear out. IE do not need yearly replacement.
h
Apr 28, 2009
Randy
Apr 28, 2009
zeehag
May 2, 2009
zeehag
May 2, 2009