i broke my back 11 mos ago in the formosa----hurts only when i wanna do something serious....MEK is methyl-ethyl ketones....important for some fiberglass repairs and nicely toxic......boat bites dono0t get as infected as doggie bites....scars arent as toothy, either but both getcha goooood....
In preparing for the Geelong Week Regatta (Southern Hemisphere Largest Regatta, eqv to Cowes Week) I was plotting the course we need to do.
Then it triggered something in my head. We should be able to check the plot on the chart by using Excel calculation. When I searched the web I found a link to someone who has done it before. By accident it is a government department in Australia.
If you like to use the spreadsheet, go to this link
http://www.ga.gov.au/geodesy/datums/calcs.jsp#B&D
Download the MS EXCEL spreadsheet.
You need to select the Datum of your map in the first spreadsheet. Then use the Inverse Vincenty to calculate bearing between two coordinates.
To make your preventer, you can use this 2 fiddle arrangement. But you need an anchor point roughly behind your aft shrouds.
If you have a midship cleat you can use that too.
To use the 4:1 fiddle arrangement to pick up someone, you need to wind the loose end of the sheet to your winch. Then you can winch up someone in addition to the 4:1. Make it a light work of it.
Preventers are much simpler than they are often made out to be. The most important factor to consider is the location of attachment points. The use of a vang or vang-like tackle clipped to the toe-rail at the shrouds is inefficient, thus the need for mechanical advantage.
A preventer should run from the very end of the boom to the bow. I run mine through the (rather large) bow cleat and back along the side deck to a stern cleat and make it fast there.
This approach makes the preventer a very simple line about twice the length of the boat. It does mean a trip forward (or keeping two preventers rigged) when gybing. I haven't found that to be much of an issue but your mileage may vary.
With respect to using the Lifesling sailors generally use a halyard. You may or may not need some additional mechanical advantage. It's easy to figure out - a 25 gallon trash can full of water will weigh about 200 lbs. Rig a halyard to the trash can with some kind of lashing (don't use the handles - you'll tear them off) and see if you can lift the full trash can using just the halyard winch, or by running the halyard tail back to the sheet winch. If you can't you'll need to do something else. Remember that using 4:1 tackle will require a long line: 4 times the distance from the water to the top of your lifelines plus 10 feet or so. Depending on who you sail with you might need a bigger trash can for your test. *grin* Wet clothing will add a good bit of weight.
Please don't let my thoughts discourage you from getting a Lifesling. It is about the best piece of safety gear available for recovering a MOB. I have a Lifesling III on Auspicious.
I disagree with Bill about getting in the water, but I sail in colder places then he does. As in my docking comment, I don't want to leave the boat without someone aboard either.
I don't want to watch my boat sail away without me.
Next summer I'll have to see if I can get a Lifesling around a non-helpful volunteer from the deck with a boat hook ... interesting thoughts. Thanks.
*grin* I was a Red Cross lifeguard. That's a long darn way from being a SEAL.
I'll do everything I can to save a MOB, but that isn't likely to include going over the side. I know my limitations, and for me thinking through something (quickly) and acting on it is better than jumping in.
Regardless you have given me food for thought and I'm going to be practicing some different MOB recovery scenarios when the water warms up. Training and practice are among the best investments we can make.
Nice seeing a lively discussion about safety.
Great topic title I might add...
Preventers are great.Dave Scolinick gives a great description.
The preventer that I like installing is one where there is one or two internal boom preventers that will connect to a pair of port/starboard preventer pennants pre-rigged to the bow. I actually prefer the single in-boom preventer control since we usually have lots of crew to manipulate the strings. Either way the line is control goes from the cockpit, forward to a foot block near the mast, up to the gooseneck at a turning block, inside the boom, out near the aft end of the boom through an exit block with a snap shackle on the end of the preventer control line.
Forward there are two lines pre-rigged from a hitch on the toe rail or cleat that are held in place with a hook and short piece of shock cord when not being used. The stowage position for the preventer shackle is somewhere up near the vang or gooseneck. When it's time to hook up the preventer, just shackle the control preventer to the forward pennant. I've experimented with using nylon for the forward end, but usually we have a piece of spectra (low stretch). The theory of having nylon on the front end is to act like a shock absorber to reduce shock load. I seemed to prefer a short bit of nylon attached to some spectra to limit the elasticity. On one boat I put a 5 foot piece of nylon inside the spectra like a bungee to help improve the shock loading capabilities of the system.
Even while racing in the ocean, preventers can calm the slatting of the mainsail in light choppy conditions.
Boom breaks seem ok. Not for race boats. I have used them, and have evaluated them for a cruising world article. I recommended that one of both ends have a tension control for when the wind gets gusty, that when the vang is eased that the boom brake control lines don't get tight. And again when conditions change that the excessive slack can be removed. On a race boat the boom brake is a nuisance, as there are two lines that go across the boat that hinder crew movement. Another issue is that the logical attachment point for a boom break is near the vang. Booms generally don't like side torque, especially if the booms are elliptical in shape.
I hope the above isn't too confusing. What a tangled web we weave...
Paul's mechanism for avoiding a trip forward is a good one. It's a natural evolution of the single-line preventer, trading a small amount of additional complexity for added safety (trip forward to the mast instead of trip to the bow) and convenience.
He is more tactful than I about boom brakes. In my opinion, they are overly expensive, overly complicated, and fitted in an inappropriate place. The inherent risks (bending or breaking the boom if the end goes in the water) are not apparent to the uninitiated.
It is worth noting that heading up a bit reduces the chance for an accidental gybe and often increases VMG. As one can see, on my boat in lighter air, my boat will reach a destination dead-downwind more quickly by gybing the boat ("tacking downwind") 40 degrees to either side of DDW:
DDW = dead downwind
VMG = velocity made good (of the speed the boat is moving, how much is actually getting you toward your destination)
Most riggers should be able to make up synthetic lifelines from Amsteel or spectra. If your nearby West Marine has a rigging shop (many do) they might be able to make them up for you.
Once you cobble something together with line to make sure you are content with any sail conflicts, the least expensive approach is probably to reterminate the existing steel lifelines for whatever fittings you end up with on your pulpit.
Speed over ground (SOG) is the total of boat speed (course over ground (COG) is the aggregate direction) through the water, accounting for leeway ("side slip"), and set and drift (the effects of current). So if your boat heading is N at 5 kts through the water with winds 12 kts from the SW and current 1/2 kt from the S your SOG could be just under 6 kts and COG somewhere between N and ENE. (All this is just grossly estimated, I didn't do any calculations.)
Now lets add a destination that is to the NW. If COG is between N and ENE and the bearing to your destination (usually bearing to waypoint or BTW) then for every mile you move forward you are only getting a little over 1/2 mile closer to your actual destination. So if your SOG is a bit under 6 kts your velocity made good (speed toward your destination or waypoint) is around 3-1/4 kts.
For most folks the concept is more important than the calculation, but if you want I can post the example with numbers and all the calculations.
Put it this way: If your speed over ground was 10 knots, but at a direction what was 90 degrees from your destination, your VMG would be zero.
If your SOG was 10 knots on a heading directly toward your destination, then your VMG would be 10 knots.
Last year we were heading toward Bermuda, in the Gulf Stream and the wind was coming directly from Bermuda's heading so either tack was as close to Bermuda not considering the current. On starboard tack with a SOG of 8 knots (6 knots boatspeed + 2 knots current in that direction) our VMG was about 4 knots toward Bermuda. On port tack, our VMG was about 7 knots toward Bermuda due to the current pushing us upwind.
VMG is the velocity made good toward your destination.
Hope that helps.
I guess we're doing navigation maintenance today...
Paige just posted a video (see http://seaknots.ning.com/video/video/show?id=900123%3AVideo%3A54640 ) that shows about the simplest set up: a line run from the end of the boom to a bow cleat.
Dear Group:
The weather here in Northern CA has been too nice with no rain, frosty mornings and up to 70s in the afternoon. Clear Lake has not even started to rise yet in the absence of rain and all are worried that drought may keep it very low.
Just finished adding a CDI furler to "Chantel Marie" our Mac 25. The 135 Genny made by Rolley Tasker cruising grade will improve morning sailing and light winds. Since I trailer-sail, I rigged the furler to lay along the mast and not dangle out front as many do. It adds to set-up time but will be fun to use.
Best Regards, Wilson and Christine, "Chantel Marie" Mac 25
I'm getting ready to replace the diaphragms on a Yanmar sail drive on a Farr 40.
The only real hassle is removing the sail drive from the boat to replace the diaphragms on a bench, then reinstall the sail drive into the boat.
1st the propeller is removed, then a hull cover plate that makes the lower unit hole smaller, then unbolt the mountings, lift the saildrive out of the boat, remove the old seals, attach the round upper diaphragm with the special hose clamp type devices, attach the lower water seal diaghpram to the unit, then rebed the saildrive into the boat. It will be about 8 man hours and use a long reach fork lift for lifting the saildrive out & into the boat.
I'm not sure yet about the lifespan of the diaphragms, but 7 years seems to be prudent.
Do any of you have saildrives in your boat?
A little less conventional than shaft driven boats, but vibration is not an issue with saildrives, and less complicated to install on a new build. No shaft alignment or packing drip issues.
In Annapolis, it's much warmer than Baltimore. Quite nice actually. Prepped a boat for sailing today wearing just a sweater as the ice was melting off the decks. The Frostbite Series starts up again this Sunday.
We have 2 Yanmar Saildrives on our SF 44, but I've never changed them myself. Doesn't look that tough (as long as boat is out of the water :)). I would comment that I've been advised it's a good idea to change the diaphrams annually, depending upon use...
If I was looking for work I'd advise annual replacement of the diaphragms also.
Seems excessive to do it annually.
Some maintenance is event driven, like if you caught a line in the prop and it torqued the saildrive hard causing distortion on the engine mount. I've seen saildrives take that sort of abuse.
When saildrives are installed, a consideration needs to be made to allow the engine to be moved forward away from the sail drive to enable the spline shaft to separate. I've seen some installations that didn't take this into consideration that required the entire engine to be removed with the saildrive to change the diaphragms. Some boats designed have the engine installation that excludes a change to a saildrive due to engine room size constraints.
I have one boat owner that I'm trying to convince to install a saildrive into his boat because there is an incredible amount of vibration in his running gear prop shaft. He doesn't deliver the boat, so he's not suffering the ridiculous vibration his crew endures. His boat would be perfect for a saildrive installation, but he'd rather buy a new sail versus paying for a convenience for his crew.
Your comment about yards looking for work is probably on target...we haven't done it that frequently...and haven't had problems (except as noted below).
And, actually, as I think about it, I misspoke - the seals and gear oil we replace annually, but not the diaphragms. You probably know far more than I about the mechanicals there.
As a user, however, I've been quite pleased. On our cat, they are mounted amidships, angled inwards from where the engines are mounted amidships. they have been trouble-free (except for when I wrapped an anchor chain around it...still attached to an anchor...and pulled the entire shaft our of the saildrive - but that's another story...). In that position they are well-protected from grounding, and well away from where any swimmer in the water is likely to get too close. They may be a bit more prone to fouling on lines or buoys, however, as they protrude much more from the hulls than the typical shaft-mounted propeller.
Kevin,
Have you looked at your engine room to see if you have the 6" of forward area to slide the engine forward in case you need to remove the saildrive for the diaphragm replacement? It might help to know in case a mechanic tells you that you'll need him to remove the entire engine to service the diaphragms. Having that knowledge would help save a lot of money.
Thanks...I found out that, fortunately, the removal was pretty easy on our boat - room enough for guys at Grenada Marine to replace entire sail drive in a couple hours. On our boat the engine "rooms" are basically covers, under the counter in the galley on one hull and under storage areas on the other (not always pleasant, but very accessable, and just about dead center over the keels - good place for the weight).
Getting that job completed and the boat splashed on Christmas Eve - a Sunday that year, no less - was the real miracle! Didn't happen without some extra "grease", to make for a merrier Christmas for the guys that came in that day to do it (still feeling no pain from the previous night's merriment, no less) - but it sure beat losing an $8k charter!
When bottom painting the boat what should I do concerning some barnacles on the thru hulls? Scrape out with screw driver? Do you put any paint up there? Also I know you don't paint the knot meter paddle (not sure what u call it..been a long winter) do you coat it with anything? thank you, Terri
Another sailor told me this week, that the current CURRENTS magazine has an ad for a dual fuel filter system. I guess if your filter gets clogged, a switch is turned on (automatic or by hand?)...Would have to be another tube, or I would think you would have to bleed the line....has anyone seen this, and can reply on.?
Just scrape it off using a Paint scraper which is about 1" wide. Iwould paint the lot.
When selecting antifoul paint, I am having a great success with International Paint Micron 66. The most expensive paint, but I think it is head and shoulders above Micron Extra. in 18 months I probably need my bottom cleaned only twice.
I have no experience with the Pettit range or others.
I looked up on the net info as follows:
Dual filter controller with built in vacuum/pressure gage for monitoring the online filter. There is a built in fuel pump, which allows easy engine bleeding-with or without the engine operating and also allows easy filter bleeding and servicing. The fuel pump can also supply fuel to the injector unit, if lift pump fails. A remote annunciator panel allows an advance warning that the filter is clogging, by an amber LED light. Also a green LED light indicates when the fuel pump is on. The Early Warning Panel is only 1" square, so it can be mounted in close quarters. A bleed port allows for filter servicing and bleeding out air and can be adapted for "fuel polishing". The FilterBOSS is built with heavy duty valves with Viton seals. All fittings are Bi-lok brass grade CA360, with type K copper tubing .035" wall thickness. Con-x weather tight cannon plug with 10' electrical harness is included, along with a remote early warning panel, an installation/operational manual and placards. H8.5 X W6.5 X D5.5 7.5 lbs.
Dual fuel filter systems are very convenient, especially if you have regular fuel problems with old baffled tanks.
But one of the best things you can do to your fuel system is to put a vacuum gauge on the fuel line. After you install a new clean filter, you will notice a nominal reading of just a few psi vacuum. As the filter does it's work and begins to clog, the vacuum psi will rise and you'll then have some mechanical warning that the filter will need changing.
The vacuum gauge is very easy to install.
The primary parts are the "T" fitting and the vacuum gauge.
I prefer to have the T fitting separate from the fuel filter, as in not directly attached to the filter so that if you bump the fitting it won't crack at the connection.
A dual filter installation is a bit more challenging with space available often being difficult to find. A manifold that has the supply and return valves next to each other make identification & system operation less prone to mistakes.
I had one boat with 4 fuel & 4 water tanks with engine & genset. Both the engine and genset had dual Racor filters, and a fuel scrubbing racor filter set that I could also move fuel from one tank to another that worked independent from the engine. One problem was that the vacuum on the scrubber was so great that it would starve the genset, so we added an electric lift pump to the genset to increase boost. The engine also had an electric lift pump for bleeding. The genset electric lift pump was also good for bleeding the fuel lines also.
We also added electric oil change pumps to the engine which really made my life better, especially for changing oil at sea or when time was restrained.
A soft hose installation can handle the bumps much better.
Expensive?
I imagine that the cost/value would need to be weighed.
All the parts on the American Promise complex system described below would probably cost about $2500.00 for parts and another $600 to $1000 for professional installation.
The T & vacuum gauge installation would cost about $40.
Lola, What's that gauge in the photo?
Also I don't see a fuel shut off valve.
Otherwise you have reasonable access
The muffler also has a feature of a drain plug, but it's not made active as the plastic muffler needs to be drilled and a cap added to that little bump on the lower left side of the muffler under the exhaust exit hose.
The drain plug feature is for when the engine becomes difficult to start, and the effort to start then floods the muffler & exhaust hose to a point that could flood and hydrolock the engine.
Hydrolocking is rare, and usually reserved for older engines that are difficult to start. A simple remedy is to shut off the seawater supply.
On real BAD engines, I just remove the impeller with the seawater shut off until I can get the engine started, then once started to stop the engine and install the impellor and then run the engine with the seawater valve open.
Hey Pete
was at the boat..took a picture of the meter...it was an hour meter. I have a picture of the fuel gauge and the hour one.....will upload them later.
zeehag
Jan 15, 2009
zeehag
Jan 15, 2009
zeehag
Jan 15, 2009
zeehag
Jan 15, 2009
h
Like someone said: boat ownership and cruising is like fixing boats at exotic places.
That is why I am doing a longer term plan to fix my boat, and recondition all the bits as I go along. In preparation for retirement and cruising life.
Jan 15, 2009
h
For your Westerbeke, have you tried marineengine.com?
I think I have joined this forum in the past. But now I forget the userid and password. Too many of those.
Jan 15, 2009
h
I like to share something I found just now.
In preparing for the Geelong Week Regatta (Southern Hemisphere Largest Regatta, eqv to Cowes Week) I was plotting the course we need to do.
Then it triggered something in my head. We should be able to check the plot on the chart by using Excel calculation. When I searched the web I found a link to someone who has done it before. By accident it is a government department in Australia.
If you like to use the spreadsheet, go to this link
http://www.ga.gov.au/geodesy/datums/calcs.jsp#B&D
Download the MS EXCEL spreadsheet.
You need to select the Datum of your map in the first spreadsheet. Then use the Inverse Vincenty to calculate bearing between two coordinates.
Have fun.
Jan 19, 2009
h
The boom fang is normaly made out of 2 fiddles to make 4:1 ratio lifting system.
http://www.harken.com/CatalogPDF/020-ref-boom_vangs-outhaul.pdf
To make your preventer, you can use this 2 fiddle arrangement. But you need an anchor point roughly behind your aft shrouds.
If you have a midship cleat you can use that too.
To use the 4:1 fiddle arrangement to pick up someone, you need to wind the loose end of the sheet to your winch. Then you can winch up someone in addition to the 4:1. Make it a light work of it.
Good Luck,
Jan 20, 2009
Dave Skolnick
A preventer should run from the very end of the boom to the bow. I run mine through the (rather large) bow cleat and back along the side deck to a stern cleat and make it fast there.
This approach makes the preventer a very simple line about twice the length of the boat. It does mean a trip forward (or keeping two preventers rigged) when gybing. I haven't found that to be much of an issue but your mileage may vary.
With respect to using the Lifesling sailors generally use a halyard. You may or may not need some additional mechanical advantage. It's easy to figure out - a 25 gallon trash can full of water will weigh about 200 lbs. Rig a halyard to the trash can with some kind of lashing (don't use the handles - you'll tear them off) and see if you can lift the full trash can using just the halyard winch, or by running the halyard tail back to the sheet winch. If you can't you'll need to do something else. Remember that using 4:1 tackle will require a long line: 4 times the distance from the water to the top of your lifelines plus 10 feet or so. Depending on who you sail with you might need a bigger trash can for your test. *grin* Wet clothing will add a good bit of weight.
Please don't let my thoughts discourage you from getting a Lifesling. It is about the best piece of safety gear available for recovering a MOB. I have a Lifesling III on Auspicious.
Jan 20, 2009
Dave Skolnick
I don't want to watch my boat sail away without me.
Next summer I'll have to see if I can get a Lifesling around a non-helpful volunteer from the deck with a boat hook ... interesting thoughts. Thanks.
Jan 20, 2009
Dave Skolnick
I'll do everything I can to save a MOB, but that isn't likely to include going over the side. I know my limitations, and for me thinking through something (quickly) and acting on it is better than jumping in.
Regardless you have given me food for thought and I'm going to be practicing some different MOB recovery scenarios when the water warms up. Training and practice are among the best investments we can make.
Jan 20, 2009
Dave Skolnick
Jan 20, 2009
h
For short sails, a boom brake may be more suitable than a preventer. This will allow you to gybe when needed without too much de-rigging.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|319697|311639|199&id=911760
Jan 20, 2009
PCarrico
Great topic title I might add...
Preventers are great.Dave Scolinick gives a great description.
The preventer that I like installing is one where there is one or two internal boom preventers that will connect to a pair of port/starboard preventer pennants pre-rigged to the bow. I actually prefer the single in-boom preventer control since we usually have lots of crew to manipulate the strings. Either way the line is control goes from the cockpit, forward to a foot block near the mast, up to the gooseneck at a turning block, inside the boom, out near the aft end of the boom through an exit block with a snap shackle on the end of the preventer control line.
Forward there are two lines pre-rigged from a hitch on the toe rail or cleat that are held in place with a hook and short piece of shock cord when not being used. The stowage position for the preventer shackle is somewhere up near the vang or gooseneck. When it's time to hook up the preventer, just shackle the control preventer to the forward pennant. I've experimented with using nylon for the forward end, but usually we have a piece of spectra (low stretch). The theory of having nylon on the front end is to act like a shock absorber to reduce shock load. I seemed to prefer a short bit of nylon attached to some spectra to limit the elasticity. On one boat I put a 5 foot piece of nylon inside the spectra like a bungee to help improve the shock loading capabilities of the system.
Even while racing in the ocean, preventers can calm the slatting of the mainsail in light choppy conditions.
Boom breaks seem ok. Not for race boats. I have used them, and have evaluated them for a cruising world article. I recommended that one of both ends have a tension control for when the wind gets gusty, that when the vang is eased that the boom brake control lines don't get tight. And again when conditions change that the excessive slack can be removed. On a race boat the boom brake is a nuisance, as there are two lines that go across the boat that hinder crew movement. Another issue is that the logical attachment point for a boom break is near the vang. Booms generally don't like side torque, especially if the booms are elliptical in shape.
I hope the above isn't too confusing. What a tangled web we weave...
Jan 22, 2009
Dave Skolnick
He is more tactful than I about boom brakes. In my opinion, they are overly expensive, overly complicated, and fitted in an inappropriate place. The inherent risks (bending or breaking the boom if the end goes in the water) are not apparent to the uninitiated.
It is worth noting that heading up a bit reduces the chance for an accidental gybe and often increases VMG. As one can see, on my boat in lighter air, my boat will reach a destination dead-downwind more quickly by gybing the boat ("tacking downwind") 40 degrees to either side of DDW:
Jan 23, 2009
Dave Skolnick
VMG = velocity made good (of the speed the boat is moving, how much is actually getting you toward your destination)
Most riggers should be able to make up synthetic lifelines from Amsteel or spectra. If your nearby West Marine has a rigging shop (many do) they might be able to make them up for you.
Once you cobble something together with line to make sure you are content with any sail conflicts, the least expensive approach is probably to reterminate the existing steel lifelines for whatever fittings you end up with on your pulpit.
Jan 23, 2009
Dave Skolnick
Now lets add a destination that is to the NW. If COG is between N and ENE and the bearing to your destination (usually bearing to waypoint or BTW) then for every mile you move forward you are only getting a little over 1/2 mile closer to your actual destination. So if your SOG is a bit under 6 kts your velocity made good (speed toward your destination or waypoint) is around 3-1/4 kts.
For most folks the concept is more important than the calculation, but if you want I can post the example with numbers and all the calculations.
Jan 23, 2009
Dave Skolnick
"If COG is between N and ENE and the bearing to your destination (usually bearing to waypoint or BTW) "
should be
"If COG is between N and ENE and the bearing to your destination (usually bearing to waypoint or BTW) is about 55 degrees "
Jan 23, 2009
PCarrico
If your SOG was 10 knots on a heading directly toward your destination, then your VMG would be 10 knots.
Last year we were heading toward Bermuda, in the Gulf Stream and the wind was coming directly from Bermuda's heading so either tack was as close to Bermuda not considering the current. On starboard tack with a SOG of 8 knots (6 knots boatspeed + 2 knots current in that direction) our VMG was about 4 knots toward Bermuda. On port tack, our VMG was about 7 knots toward Bermuda due to the current pushing us upwind.
VMG is the velocity made good toward your destination.
Hope that helps.
I guess we're doing navigation maintenance today...
Jan 23, 2009
Dave Skolnick
Jan 23, 2009
Dave Skolnick
Jan 23, 2009
h
Autralian Open is on, Serena Williams is loosing her 1st set. Extreem weather policy is now being applied. They are closing the roof.
Jan 27, 2009
Wilson
The weather here in Northern CA has been too nice with no rain, frosty mornings and up to 70s in the afternoon. Clear Lake has not even started to rise yet in the absence of rain and all are worried that drought may keep it very low.
Just finished adding a CDI furler to "Chantel Marie" our Mac 25. The 135 Genny made by Rolley Tasker cruising grade will improve morning sailing and light winds. Since I trailer-sail, I rigged the furler to lay along the mast and not dangle out front as many do. It adds to set-up time but will be fun to use.
Best Regards, Wilson and Christine, "Chantel Marie" Mac 25
Jan 28, 2009
PCarrico
The only real hassle is removing the sail drive from the boat to replace the diaphragms on a bench, then reinstall the sail drive into the boat.
1st the propeller is removed, then a hull cover plate that makes the lower unit hole smaller, then unbolt the mountings, lift the saildrive out of the boat, remove the old seals, attach the round upper diaphragm with the special hose clamp type devices, attach the lower water seal diaghpram to the unit, then rebed the saildrive into the boat. It will be about 8 man hours and use a long reach fork lift for lifting the saildrive out & into the boat.
I'm not sure yet about the lifespan of the diaphragms, but 7 years seems to be prudent.
Do any of you have saildrives in your boat?
A little less conventional than shaft driven boats, but vibration is not an issue with saildrives, and less complicated to install on a new build. No shaft alignment or packing drip issues.
Jan 29, 2009
h
We just had the longest sequence of heat wave in Melbourne.
3 days in a row above 43 'C, with a max of 45.1 'C today. (110 - 113 'F).
In addition to that, we have no power for 2 of those days. No airconditioning. Definitely melting away.
Better to be in the cold,at least we can put on more layers. We can not take off any more when we are already in our birthday suit.
Jan 30, 2009
PCarrico
Jan 30, 2009
Kevin Wood
Jan 30, 2009
PCarrico
Seems excessive to do it annually.
Some maintenance is event driven, like if you caught a line in the prop and it torqued the saildrive hard causing distortion on the engine mount. I've seen saildrives take that sort of abuse.
When saildrives are installed, a consideration needs to be made to allow the engine to be moved forward away from the sail drive to enable the spline shaft to separate. I've seen some installations that didn't take this into consideration that required the entire engine to be removed with the saildrive to change the diaphragms. Some boats designed have the engine installation that excludes a change to a saildrive due to engine room size constraints.
I have one boat owner that I'm trying to convince to install a saildrive into his boat because there is an incredible amount of vibration in his running gear prop shaft. He doesn't deliver the boat, so he's not suffering the ridiculous vibration his crew endures. His boat would be perfect for a saildrive installation, but he'd rather buy a new sail versus paying for a convenience for his crew.
Jan 31, 2009
Kevin Wood
And, actually, as I think about it, I misspoke - the seals and gear oil we replace annually, but not the diaphragms. You probably know far more than I about the mechanicals there.
As a user, however, I've been quite pleased. On our cat, they are mounted amidships, angled inwards from where the engines are mounted amidships. they have been trouble-free (except for when I wrapped an anchor chain around it...still attached to an anchor...and pulled the entire shaft our of the saildrive - but that's another story...). In that position they are well-protected from grounding, and well away from where any swimmer in the water is likely to get too close. They may be a bit more prone to fouling on lines or buoys, however, as they protrude much more from the hulls than the typical shaft-mounted propeller.
Jan 31, 2009
PCarrico
Have you looked at your engine room to see if you have the 6" of forward area to slide the engine forward in case you need to remove the saildrive for the diaphragm replacement? It might help to know in case a mechanic tells you that you'll need him to remove the entire engine to service the diaphragms. Having that knowledge would help save a lot of money.
Feb 2, 2009
Kevin Wood
Getting that job completed and the boat splashed on Christmas Eve - a Sunday that year, no less - was the real miracle! Didn't happen without some extra "grease", to make for a merrier Christmas for the guys that came in that day to do it (still feeling no pain from the previous night's merriment, no less) - but it sure beat losing an $8k charter!
Feb 2, 2009
Suky
http://www.ehow.com/video_2280525_maintain-boat-fuses.html
Feb 6, 2009
Terri
Feb 15, 2009
LOLA
Thank you
Feb 15, 2009
h
Just scrape it off using a Paint scraper which is about 1" wide. Iwould paint the lot.
When selecting antifoul paint, I am having a great success with International Paint Micron 66. The most expensive paint, but I think it is head and shoulders above Micron Extra. in 18 months I probably need my bottom cleaned only twice.
I have no experience with the Pettit range or others.
Feb 15, 2009
LOLA
Dual filter controller with built in vacuum/pressure gage for monitoring the online filter. There is a built in fuel pump, which allows easy engine bleeding-with or without the engine operating and also allows easy filter bleeding and servicing. The fuel pump can also supply fuel to the injector unit, if lift pump fails. A remote annunciator panel allows an advance warning that the filter is clogging, by an amber LED light. Also a green LED light indicates when the fuel pump is on. The Early Warning Panel is only 1" square, so it can be mounted in close quarters. A bleed port allows for filter servicing and bleeding out air and can be adapted for "fuel polishing". The FilterBOSS is built with heavy duty valves with Viton seals. All fittings are Bi-lok brass grade CA360, with type K copper tubing .035" wall thickness. Con-x weather tight cannon plug with 10' electrical harness is included, along with a remote early warning panel, an installation/operational manual and placards. H8.5 X W6.5 X D5.5 7.5 lbs.
Price $975
Feb 15, 2009
Terri
Feb 15, 2009
PCarrico
But one of the best things you can do to your fuel system is to put a vacuum gauge on the fuel line. After you install a new clean filter, you will notice a nominal reading of just a few psi vacuum. As the filter does it's work and begins to clog, the vacuum psi will rise and you'll then have some mechanical warning that the filter will need changing.
Feb 16, 2009
LOLA
Is it expensive and expensive to install?
Feb 16, 2009
PCarrico
The primary parts are the "T" fitting and the vacuum gauge.
I prefer to have the T fitting separate from the fuel filter, as in not directly attached to the filter so that if you bump the fitting it won't crack at the connection.
A dual filter installation is a bit more challenging with space available often being difficult to find. A manifold that has the supply and return valves next to each other make identification & system operation less prone to mistakes.
I had one boat with 4 fuel & 4 water tanks with engine & genset. Both the engine and genset had dual Racor filters, and a fuel scrubbing racor filter set that I could also move fuel from one tank to another that worked independent from the engine. One problem was that the vacuum on the scrubber was so great that it would starve the genset, so we added an electric lift pump to the genset to increase boost. The engine also had an electric lift pump for bleeding. The genset electric lift pump was also good for bleeding the fuel lines also.
We also added electric oil change pumps to the engine which really made my life better, especially for changing oil at sea or when time was restrained.
A soft hose installation can handle the bumps much better.
Feb 17, 2009
PCarrico
I imagine that the cost/value would need to be weighed.
All the parts on the American Promise complex system described below would probably cost about $2500.00 for parts and another $600 to $1000 for professional installation.
The T & vacuum gauge installation would cost about $40.
Feb 17, 2009
LOLA
Feb 17, 2009
PCarrico
Also I don't see a fuel shut off valve.
Otherwise you have reasonable access
The muffler also has a feature of a drain plug, but it's not made active as the plastic muffler needs to be drilled and a cap added to that little bump on the lower left side of the muffler under the exhaust exit hose.
The drain plug feature is for when the engine becomes difficult to start, and the effort to start then floods the muffler & exhaust hose to a point that could flood and hydrolock the engine.
Hydrolocking is rare, and usually reserved for older engines that are difficult to start. A simple remedy is to shut off the seawater supply.
On real BAD engines, I just remove the impeller with the seawater shut off until I can get the engine started, then once started to stop the engine and install the impellor and then run the engine with the seawater valve open.
Feb 17, 2009
LOLA
was at the boat..took a picture of the meter...it was an hour meter. I have a picture of the fuel gauge and the hour one.....will upload them later.
Mar 8, 2009