Finding and Preventing Problems

[Harry]

As our beloved "Eyebrow" Oceanis ...ahem...mature, I was wondering if it would help to share some maintenance/part failure experiences that seem to be unique or common to these boats.

What got me thinking about this?

1. I had a very experienced sailor/friend on board as I was returning from the Bahamas this spring. He mentioned that the efforts to unfurl the main seemed excessive. I guess the effort increased so gradually I didn't notice it.

Fix: The cause turned our to be a deteriorated sheave (pulley) in the boom.  Specifically the forward one closes to the mast was broken and not turning causing the excessive effort to unfurl the main. My dealer suggested replacing both the forward and rear with ball bearing sheaves. It was a simple fix and it makes a world of difference reducing the friction on the outhaul.

2. My shower drain pump started working intermittently and eventually completely stopped. 

Fix: After an extensive session with the multi meter I discovered the hot wire to the pump has a connector that had corroded and one of the wires separated. What makes this unique, at least on my boat, was the connector was not in a very visible spot. The connection is under the sink but behind and separate from the main bundle of wiring. I suspect the moisture from the sink and shower, over time, caused the corrosion. 

Harry

[Mike Brown]

Here's a couple of more.

1. On the 43 the macerator pump in the forward head is mounted horizontally which allows any fluid to sit in the pump body. The acids in the fluid quickly eats away at the hardware that mounts the pump body to the motor. The solution is to either mount the new pump vertically with the pump body at the top or install a diaphragm type pump. If you use a diaphragm type pump use one thats designed to pump waste. Otherwise the pump may experience issues with waste hanging up in the flaps. 

2. The condensation pumps on the air conditioner compressors have a high failure rate. Either one can be the cause of water collecting in the bilge. An option to replacing the pumps is to install a venturi device that will keep the condensation sumps well evacuated.

3. The factory installed bilge pump switch is a mercury type with a very high actuation point. As the sump is rather shallow  it will spill over by the time the switch turns the pump on. Installing a water sensing switch. I placed it low in the sump ty-wrapped to the intake hose.

Mike

[foster]

Hello,

I retighted all the stanchions and cleats that were accessible. By luck the remaining ones seem well tighten.

I had a hard time with the turnbuckles since they were commisioned dry.

I say the Oceanis gets even better with maturation with all the little improvments we made year after year.

Like the spi halyard.

[Harry]

Thanks Foster,

Your additions remind me of another item.

While doing a pre-sail deck walk before crossing the Gulf Stream I just happened to finger one of the bolts that hold the gooseneck to the mast. I found both bolts were so loose I could have completely removed them with my fingers...phew.

[Harry]

Hi Mike,

Thanks.  

I meant to ask you about #2 when we met in Hopetown. What is a Venturi Device? Pictures? 

Harry

[Mike Brown]

Harry, a venturi device is a T shaped device where the primary fluid flow is across the top of the T. The vertical post of the T is connected to a tube which when fluid flows across the T top creates a vacuum. The device doesn't require any power to operate.  I've added the web link below for a kit put together by Mermaid Air-conditioning. It's not cheap but is effective. You'll need one for each AC unit.

Mike

Here's the link to a Mermaid Condensator Device. 

http://www.mmair.com/marine_division/accessories/mermaid_condensator

[Mike Brown]

Harry, I just posted pictures of the venturi device I installed for the aft AC condensation. While I could have led the condensation pick up tube to the condensation pan it would not have picked up the condensation as well as using this gravity fed system. I led the condensation pan's drain hose to a juice bottle I wedged in the bilge. I inserted the pick up tube for the venturi device in the same bottle. Now when the AC water pump runs and water flows through the system a vacuum is created and any condensation that collected in the bottle is drawn overboard via the venturi device. I hope this is clear for you.

Mike

[Harry]

Thanks Mike. The pictures and link make it clear what you did. 

[James Taylor]

Our B43 has, for most part, been a very reliable, sturdy boat. We replaced the forward macerator and forward heads leaking marelon macerator seacock. Dekka Agm's served 7 years, most systems are original. almost 2000hrs on Yanmar (we do a lot of motor sailing on passages) , hull is still somewhat shinny. Boat is quick and responsive. Sails appear to be holding up well. Replaced few minor items, nothing really major. Converted to fresh water flush while new, no "boat" smells! Added 280 watts solar, AIS, external cockpit vhf speaker (handheld cockpit speaker to weak),LED lighting,34" flatscreen wired to E120W chartplotter. Our "in pan" condensate pump on forward Cruiseair is noisy but it works fine.  No complaints, nice boats!

[Harry]

Lewmar Hatch: If any of the early (2007-9 maybe) 40s have had the latch fall off of their Lewmar hatch, below is a good US source for a replacement lens. The advantage of this solution, in addition to price, is the replacement is fitted with the later model latch that is not glued on like the early ones. 

 

Anne Bloom

Select Plastics, LLC

219 Liberty Square

East Norwalk, CT 06855

[e-mail]

[phone]

[phone]-fax

 

www.selectplastics.com

[Mike Brown]

Harry, thanks for sharing the info on your two problems and fixes. Fortunately I haven't seen the mainsail fuller issue. I have seen the shower sump problem though. On my boat pulling and reinserting the red/hot lead at the box under the sink seemed to work. I'd agree there was likely some oxidation that caused the problem.

Mike

[foster]

Hello
During Xmas cruise to the Costa Brava.

I got a new problem :

No Yanmar start when turning the key. By chance we were berthed in the harbour.

Quick cheks battery ok
Battery switches ok

So I think it comes from the Yanmar panel and key.

This part is almost impossible to access . The bolts and nuts turn loose at the black panel, the box is assembled with Sikaflex.

No real access by behind.

With a lot of difficulties got my hand at the back of the panel and all came back to work ok.

So probably a loose connection or a corroded connection with to much voltage drop to activate the starter relay as well as the air extractor., the windlass and bow thruster.

This sentinel event needs cure.

Has anyone had this problem?

I am looking at an emergency procedure to start the engine without relay ort the engine panel.

Thinking of a redundant way of starting by a heavy duty switch near the engine.

This will keep me busy during the winter season because I think it is a near miss situation had it happen anchored in a bad place with a lee shore for example.

Your suggestions are more than welcome.

Thank s

Denis

[Harry]

Hi Denis, 

I'll comment on access to the Yanmar panel. I removed mine by removing the 4 perimiter screws, one showing in the attached picture. The first time it took some delicate prying but it eventually popped out. 

I never experienced the no start condition. I'm sure there is a way to start the engine at the engine with some alligator clipped jump wires. May be worth setting up an emergence/service start button in the engine bay. 

Let us know what you fine out.

Harry