Among the B40/43 that have the non furling mainsail has anyone added  a 3rd reef and how ?


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I have been thinking and trying some things on the main sail.
.The reefs are calculated as multıples of 1/3 area ..So I dont think it will do any good to change this.
..However I had problems in pulling down the main sail after finishing the reef 2 elevation.So I added a 6mm line from the top corner down to the cockpit with a roller on the bottom of the mast.....Now I can pull down all of the main sail from the cockpit.
.My second experiment is with the reef lines sticking due to the weight of the main sail and I have to relieve the lines from the bottom of the mast before pulling the sail up..So I am planning to change the reef lines as the grafik.jpg (attached) I hoope it works
best rgds
Can Kurdoglu
I have also thought about putting in a third reef but the frist and second are large chunks of sail so probably think that if weather was that bad --a trysail would be more appropriate. Like Can Kurdoglu the main doesn't drop fully although it is getting better--four months old and over winter will be fitting a hauling line to mainsail head. The reefing suggested is a more customary system rather than a single purchase to tack and clew. I have already taken the topping lift back to the cockpit so that I can lift boom easily whilst reefing. What do teh sail makers suggest?
Thank you,

I have the same problems getting the sail down; with a special spray 'Sailkote' it is a little easier.

In fact I am thinking of getting a new full batten main sail in hydranet triradial with three reefs. I would be using a two line system and some type of cars on rails (Harken has one that can divide the height of the cars by two by an inverted Y seperator.) Reaching over 30 knts is very uncomfortable with rhe second reef. In the Med the wind can pick up very quickly.

Another problem with the original reef lines mostly the second is that it can twist floging with the wind and becoming very hard to pull down.

I think there is place for a major improvment of the original system and mainsail.

I am with you Denis, fully battened is the way I will go, when its time to change. With a fully battened sail I think there is opportunity to get some more roach in the main also. Sailkote helps the sliders and with the twisting of the reef line, I have taken to only running the boom end line to the second, if the forecast suggest it will blow 25-30 plus.

One thing I found on the headsail was that the UV protection on the original Sobstaad sail supplied did not wrap completely around the leech of the sail and left this part exposed when furled. Check yours out. This repair also enabled the install of more velcro to properly hide away the leech cord which is better.



I added a 3rd reef in 1999.  I had Doyle Sails do it in the BVI's.  I have never had to use it but having it there was calming.



sv Brianne

thank's for the reply. In 1999 it must of been a 423 or 411. Do you have details or better pictures.


do you have a padeye on the mast and the third reef on a cockpit blocker for the aft fixation ? Is your sail fullbatten with a rail ?

Best regards.


The 3rd reef has a cringle like the other two.  I manually hook that cringle at the goose neck on a hook.  The sail leech/foot is pulled back and down by a line that runs thru the boom and back to a spinlock jammer.  I have a full battened loose footed main.
The rig is as follows: the reef line is tied around the boom at the appropriate spot below the 3rd reef grommet.   It goes up to that grommet on the leech and back down to the end of the boom, thru the boom to the mast then down to the mast foot and then back into the cockpit to the jammer.  I know how much halyard to release to bring the main down so that the cringle is almost at the hook.  I have a small line on the cringle and I stretch the sail and cringle down and arounf the gooseneck hook.  Then it's back to the cockpit and pull the reef line so that I achieve a tight foot.  Done
Hope this helps.  I I can find a picture I'll attach it later.


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