Hi All - I'm the proud new owner of an '11 B40. 2 cabin model with 54hp yanmar, furling main. Have had the boat for a few weeks now and about 120 miles of sailing (and motoring). Love it, but I have a few questions about wiring, rig tuning, plumbing, etc. and I'm hoping to find one or some of you to help.
1. The shower sump pump will run once the water level activates the float switch, pump the sump dry (kind of a pulsing suction, not smooth like the bilge pump), then enough water will flow back into the sump to trigger it to run again...and again, and again, etc. Quite annoying and obviously not what the factory intended. I've taken to sucking the leftover water out with a wet vac, but am not sure what else to do.
2. With the battery selectors turned off and the boat plugged-in, the battery charger (no inverter, just a charger) will not charge the batteries. As soon as you turn the batteries on, the charger kicks-on. Also, the electric head is wired to the engine battery, so that has to be on in order to flush. I can't rationalize why anyone/the factory would wire it that way, but if one of you can, please chime-in.
3. I've seen mention of rig tuning on the forum, but not much in terms of responses - has anyone taken a loos gauge to their boat and recorded some numbers that you can share? Any good rules of thumb for rig tension? The yard put very little tension on the backstays, for example, and I'm wondering if that's correct. Also, on a beat the inner shroud has much more slack than the outer.
I have more, but that's a good start - any advice from an experienced owner would be very much appreciated - thanks in advance!
Congratulations on your B40 purchase.
I had the same challenge with my shower pump too and solved it by replacing the worn parts contained in a "Pump Service Kit" available from West Marine:Model # 255682 | Mfg # AK1550 | UPC # 766478155009.
Chris - I ordered the service kit the day you replied. When I installed the new parts, I couldn't see any damage to the old valves or diaphragm, so I was skeptical, but worked like a charm!
Thanks for your help!
As Chris mentioned there's a rebuild kit available for the pump. The kit has a new pump bellows as well as a check valve. Both should resolve your back flow issue.
I agree it seems rather odd that someone wired the toilet pump to the engine battery. I can't imagine where they tied into it as other than the bow thruster as there isn't an engine wire run in that area. I'd consider rewiring to the house bank.
While I didn't use a Loos gauge on the rigging I can tell you the back stays were not as taught as the rest of the rigging. They were loose but not sloppy and could be easily shaken compared to the shrouds. Check them on a downwind run and see how they feel and the mast looks. They're there to keep the mast from bending forward and should be tight on a run. Have a rigger check them if still in doubt.
BTW the 40/43 like to be sailed flat with a max of 10-15 degrees heel. Set the mainsheet and vang then play the traveler. Just keep in mind that flat is fast while you play with trim. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with her performance.
Thanks for the reply, Mike! I've been very happy with the performance thus far. Now I'm just waiting for the weather to cooperate so I can spend some more time out on the water.
Yes I thought my backstays were loose as well and paid a rigger to to check tensions and inspect all fittings. To my surprise he informed me the person who stepped my mast did a perfect job of tensions and rigging and made no changes. Of course the guy had been selling Beneteau's for thirty plus years and it wasn't his first mast stepping.
Yes the head flush should be wired to the house bank. he only wiring from the factory I had questioned was that they wired the bilge pump to work only when the house battery was on. So I'm always on when I'm away until I rewire it.
And the only prob I've had with the shower sump is that it leaked into the bilge. I've since removed and resealed it.